Pets Smile Plus

Price : $139.99

Features

• Extra tall 30" high 6 panel Superyard creates a safe, portable play area for young children & pets- encloses 10 sq. ft.
• Includes one gate panel with childproof double locking system
• Metal Superyard sits on carpet,tilee, hardwood floors. Rubber pads prevent scratching
• Easy to setup, take down and store
• May be used for pets

Product Description

Extra tall 30 high 6 panel Superyard creates a safe, portable play area for young children & pets- encloses 10 sq. ft. Includes one gate panel with childproof double locking system. Metal Superyard sits on carpet,tilee, hardwood floors. Rubber pads prevent scratching. Easy to setup, take down and store. May be used for pets

Customer Reviews

Review date : 2008-09-19
This is completely fantastic. We love the gate, we love the wall mount pieces. We love the extremely sturdy construction. We love the extensibility of it (although the extension should of course be half the listed price). This is serving us well all over the house.

Review date : 2008-08-01
Our 1 year old daughter is a strong one and would lean up against it. It works like a charm. I bolted down one side to the wall, and slid the other end in between the bookself and the piano.

We originally had it so she had a 4 feet by 12 feet of space to play in.
But she felt so trapped that I just blocked off the entrance to the kitchen, to bookshelves, and to computer equipment. The design was so flexible that we were able to redo the gates to just block off certain areas.

Between each metal panel, you can lock it tight so it doesn’t move. The panels can be aligned to about 100 - 180 degree angles. Each set comes with a panel with a door. Each panel is about 1 inch thick.

We actually bought two sets since we needed a large area to be blocked off. Well worth the investment over the flimsy plastic ones that break and bend.

Review date : 2008-07-19
The gate is very sturdy and easy to modify. I use two of them. One to form a dog corral (I’ve got three big dogs that would roll over my kids). And I use one to isolate electronic components from the kid. The gate is 99.9% awesome. The one flaw is that if you are going to attach it from one wall to another - one side (the side farthest from the gate) does not secure to the wall very well. That is all. I would still purchase the gate and I would still highly recommend them as well. It was also pretty sweet that Amazon shipped these heavy duty gates for free.

Review date : 2008-02-29
We installed this product along an L shaped wall to create a play area for our 19 month old. The area is about 32 sq feet in size, and accommodates a small table with 2 chairs, and several of his toys. The installation took less than 3 hours, and that was with my 19 month old "helping". Without his "help", it would have been a couple hours at the most.
The product was fairly easy to install, just be sure to install the screws into the studs behind the drywall, or use some heavy duty drywall anchors if that is not an option. We have used this gate only for about a week now, so there’s not much I can say for durability just yet. However, the first impressions are good. The product looks solidly built, and can be easily to set up to any shape or design you’d like without the need for even a screw driver (apart from the ends that are secured to the wall).
I would have given it 5 stars rather that the 4 I gave it, if it weren’t for the door. The door does not swing open a full 180 degrees, it only opens 90 degrees. My son have already started pushing on the open door, and I suspect that it is only a matter of time before it will either break off or come apart. Then again, I could be wrong, and it might be sturdy enough to survive the abuse; only time will tell.

[Update on 05/14/08 After several months of use, my (positive) opinion of this product has not changed. In addition, my worries about the door have so far been unfounded. The door has survived the abuse from my son without any problems. At this point I would gladly rate this product with 5 stars, unfortunately it does not look like there is a way for me to update my initial rating.

Review date : 2008-02-23
I bought this to block off the 7 foot partition between my living room and dining room. The instructions are really vague. If you are just using it as a play area it is probably better. Me and my husband spent an hour setting this thing up and screwing the supports into the wall. The baby tore it loose from the wall in about 30 seconds.We have drywall so I had to go out and buy the plastic casings that you can put the screw into to make it stay in the wall better. They of course didn’t fit through the hole in the supports so I had to hammer the casings into the wall first then screw the screws in. It is sturdier than it was before, but I don’t know how long it will hold up against my wild baby. He is only 8 months so I was really shocked that he could pull it loose so easily. It seemed like the sturdiest gate at the store. All in all it’s better than nothing but due to the amount of aggravation of having to buy more stuff to make it sturdier and having to take it down and put it back up it loses points. You’ll probably be all right if you don’t have a hyper baby like mine who is determined to tear it down..At the least it seems sturdier than the plastic models..

Internal and external parasites are responsible for the vast majority of illnesses and disorders seen in dogs. The common dog flea is the number one health problem facing these pets. Chewing and scratching are the common signs of a flea ?allergy? caused when a dog is bitten by a flea and the allergy develops and continues even after the fleas are long gone. Fleas are also disease carriers and can threaten the dog?s health as well.

If you?ve tried all the powders, sprays, and shampoos, you might want to get a more dedicated treatment. The three products most used by Veterinarians are Program, Advantage, and Frontline. The really great thing about all three products is that each is dedicated to one purpose, elimination fleas, and you only need to use them once a month.

The oldest of these medications is Program. It is an oral drug that affects only the flea, not your pet. It works by sterilizing the flea so that no more young are produced. Since flea larvae make up over 50% of the flea population, this is very effective at breaking the flea life cycle. After 60 to 90 days, (2-3 treatments), Program will reach its maximum effectiveness, and will only need one treatment each month thereafter to maintain.

Advantage and Frontline are topical products that are placed on the skin between your pet?s shoulder blades. They then spread over you pet?s body and will paralyze and then kill any flea coming in contact with the product. These flea products are especially useful for those pets that are flea allergic, as the flea doesn?t have to bite to be eliminated.

Advantage eliminates fleas within 12 hours after contact, before they lay eggs to prevent re-infestation. It has a waterproof formula that won?t wash off and continues working even when the dog gets wet. Frontline comes in 2 forms, regular Frontline, and Frontline Plus. Both Frontline formulas are waterproof, but have the added benefit of eliminating ticks as well. While regular Frontline kills both fleas and ticks for up to 1 month, Frontline Plus continues to kill fleas for up to 3 months.

All the products mentioned are safe for your pet and have been used by Veterinarians for many years. In addition, Program can be used along with either of the topicals for complete protection. Most Veterinarians recommend Program for year round use, and then add Advantage or Frontline during the worst of the flea season (April to October).

Randy Jones and his partner Brent Jones have been in the pet industry for a long time. Recently they formed Joncopets.com. On the site, customers can read articles about anything pets as well as shop for the latest dog collars, dog clothes, dog carriers and more for their best friend. Feel free to check out the site at http://www.joncopets.com

What ingredients make for good and bad dog food?

With so many dog foods available on today’s market that are commercially prepared, it is often quite difficult as only a dog owner to tell which ones are better than others and why.

First of all, many of the big companies are paying really slick marketers and advertisers millions of dollars per year to advertise their dog food. The amount of money they are spending on marketing has no relationship to the quality of the dog food. This is unfortunate for you as some of the best advertised dog food is inferior.

There is one way for you to guess the quality of dog food however it is not fool proof. You can normally use the price of the food as an indicator as to the quality. Low priced foods are not always, but most often, the lowest quality foods on the market and likewise the more expensive are normally better quality.

When feeding your dog you want to make sure that the adult dog food you are feeding is 22-25% protein and 15-19% fat. The protein should come from a good quality source. Some dogs such as puppies, large breeds, and active breeds have different protein and fat requirements so make sure to discuss this with your vet to ensure proper feeding of your dog.

When making an informed decision, you must know which ingredients are better than others. When you look at the dog food label, the following are the kinds of ingredients that you are looking for:

- Human Grade Ingredients Chicken meal
- Turkey meal
- Fish meal
- Rice
- Potatoes
- Lamb meal
- Potatoes
- Rice
- Sunflower Oil
- Vegetables and others.

For a good dog food, the first four ingredients on the dog food label should not be grains. Instead they should consist of things like meat and proteins.

You also want to make sure it says chicken meal and not chicken as the primary ingredient. If it says chicken only, this means that the manufacturers are counting the entire chicken toward protein value. This includes all of the pieces they have probably scraped of the ground such as beaks, feathers, and feet. With chicken meal, they are only counting the cooked down version of the protein. This will ensure that your dog is getting the appropriate kind of protein and not by products.

Vitamins and fatty acids are also good ingredients in dog foods. Some examples include Vitamin E, Omega 3 and 6, etc. These are very important for a healthy looking skin and coat.

Make sure your dog food is not laden with preservatives. Some of the ingredients that you don’t want to see on your dog food label are the inferior protein’s which consists of but are not limited to variations of the following: Wheat, Corn, Chicken by-products, Soy, Gluten.

These ingredients are hard to digest and can cause health problems later on if used for a long period of time. Sugar is another ingredient that you want to stay away from.

You are always better off making your own dog food and dog treats from recipes such as those you can find at www.dogtreatrecipes.com.au, however if you are purchasing dog food you really should only purchase from a company that spends time and money field testing their products.

You can always be sure that companies such as Purina, the Iams Company (which also includes Eukanuba), Royal Canin, Nutro, Diamond, and Hill’s Science Diet are constantly testing their foods to provide the optimum quality ingredients. These companies offer different grades of food, however, from lower quality to premium quality so make sure that you always read the labels.

These are not the only companies by any means who make good quality dog food. The important thing is to read the label, do your research, ask questions of your veterinarians and pet professionals and always be informed. People who work at feed stores are usually a good resource and can help you find good quality pet food. Breeders can also be a good source for finding a quality food for your dog. Dog trainers will also often have a good knowledge of proper nutrition.

You should always follow your veterinarian’s recommendation on food as well. Many times dogs of certain ages or with certain health conditions need to be on a prescription diet. While these diets are often expensive, they do contain the proper nutrients that dogs in these categories need. Many times owners will switch to a commercial food because of cost or palatability concerns and the dog’s health will go in to a decline. Your veterinary staff know what is best for your particular dog.

While it is often confusing, proper dog nutrition is vital to the health and longevity of your dog. By knowing what consists of good quality ingredients and which ingredients to avoid, you can be assured that you will choose the proper food for your dog. As always, if you have questions, ask your veterinary staff for more information.

If you are looking for dogtreatrecipes.com.au healthy nutrious but yummy gourmet dog treat recipes come and visit Justin Bryce who is the Proprietor of

Training your dog to sit is a very important part of dog training and once mastered will help you when it comes to training your dog to learn other skills and tricks.

Patience is the key when it comes to training your dog, so it is best to train your dog when you are feeling in a good mood as a dog will be able to sense otherwise. Dogs do not react well to negativity so you need to ensure you are positive at all times, taking care not to punish or yell. The best way to train your dog to sit is by using treats to reward your dog when they have completed a task correctly. Your dog will know that he has done right and is getting praised for it. Once your dog knows he is getting a treat for doing something correctly he will continue to do so to get the attention and treats he enjoys.

When choosing the correct treat for your dog, it is best to stay away from chocolate or sweet treats, this is too unhealthy for your dog and can end up making your dog unfit and overweight as well as causing unhealthy teeth.

Finally, find a quiet location where you can train your dog where there will be no distractions and follow these simple tips:

Stand in front or to the left side of your dog.

Hold a treat above your dog, just out of his reach so that he know the treat is there.

Slowly move the treat over your dog’s head, do not hold the treat too high as it will cause your dog to jump, doing this movement correctly should cause your dog to sit.

Once your dog is about to sit down say their name and command SIT in clear strong voice. You should make sure that you say the command exactly when your dog is about to sit so he can associate the command with when he is sat down.

Praise your dog as soon as it sits down, saying either “well done”, “good” or another praising word in a happy voice.

Give your pet a treat and a little pat to show how much you appreciate what they have done.

Make sure you do not repeat the command more than 5 times in any one session. Your dog needs to see training as fun and not like it is forced. Don’t worry, you can hold more than one session in a day.

Once you have trained your dog to sit you should concentrate on other tasks or tricks, spend at least 15 minutes of each day training your dog. This will not only ensure you have a well behaved dog but it will also make your dog happy that he is spending time with you.

To find out how you can train your dog to behave visit hopeless-chick.com/animals/dogs/index.html hopeless-chick.com/animals/dogs/index.html and claim your FREE 130 dog recipes ebook.

One of the cutest looking dogs around is the Lhasa Apso. The puppies especially are just irresistible but before one decides to purchase a Lhasa just because the kids are begging for one, there are some things that should be known about this particular breed. Historically, Lhasa Apsos were kept by the monasteries and nobility in Tibet as indoor watch dogs. They would sleep by their masters and with their high intelligence plus keen sense of hearing, would warn of any intruders. Lhasa Apsos were never bought or sold in Tibet. Instead, the Dalai Lama sent Lhasa Apsos in pairs to the emperors of China as gifts. High ranking visitors to Tibet also received them as gifts.

They are also referred to as the little bark sentinel lion dogs since fully grown Lhasa Apsos could resemble small lions with all their hair. Lhasa Apso dogs can also behave very much like lions exhibiting no fear when confronted by strangers or even larger dogs. Despite its small size with adult females reaching 12 to 16 pounds and adult males ranging from 14 to 18 pounds, they are extremely hardy as well as rugged. Having existed in the extreme temperatures of Tibet for centuries, they are well suited for and actually enjoy romps in the snow. They are also long lived. Both of my Lhasa Apsos lived past the age of fifteen years. I have heard reports of others living even longer. In appearance, the Lhasa Apso is very similar to the Shih Tzu breed. The face of a Lhasa Apso is not as flat as that of the Shih Tzu. It is believed that the Chinese crossed the Lhasa Apso with the Pekinese which resulted in the Shih Tzu with its flatter face.

One thing that all prospective owners should definitely know is that having a fur ball like a Lhasa Apso will require lots of maintenance. The long hair of this breed requires constant care. If left unattended even for a few days, the Lhasa Apso hair will mat up in clumps that cannot be untangled. Their floppy ears are also prone to infections and their eyes can develop problems. If a prospective owner is not willing to make a commitment to the high maintenance of a Lhasa Apso, a shorter hair breed is recommended.

The Lhasa Apso is considered by some breeders to be more stubborn and difficult to train than other dogs. Do not let all that cuteness give you the wrong impression as they are the little lion dogs after all. This breed has been revered and highly regarded for centuries in Asia. The genetics may have resulted in some arrogance in them. One must be assertive in the proper training of the Lhasa Apso as this breed will test the new master. Lhasa Apsos are completely loyal and affectionate with their masters but many will not be fond of strangers no matter how obedient they are. This may be part of their watch dog tendency. One of my Lhasa Apsos was quite friendly with visitors but the other one wouldn’t even acknowledge their presence.

The breed may also not be appropriate with small children. Small children may get clumsy and accidentally poke Lhasas in the eyes or squeeze them too hard. Lhasas will not take this behavior lightly as they are not as patient with kids compared to say Labrador retrievers. Some Lhasas have been known to bite clumsy kids. Lhasa Apso dogs can be very good with children as long as they are treated with respect and care.

Despite these characteristics of the Lhasa Apso, they are excellent dogs to have as they can be one of the most loyal companions as long as it is recognized that they are high maintenance and may not be suitable for some families.

Clint Leung is a long time Lhasa Apso lover and owner of Free Spirit Gallery FreeSpiritGallery.ca FreeSpiritGallery.ca, an online gallery specializing in Inuit Eskimo and Northwest Native American art including carvings, sculpture and prints. Free Spirit Gallery has numerous information resource articles with photos of authentic Inuit and Native Indian art as well as free eCards.

So you’re at the pet shop choosing your new freshwater tropical fish, you’ve found the ones you’d like, and are ready to purchase. Before buying, check that the shop you are planning to buy from look after their fish properly. Tropical fish get very stressed when they are moved around, and this makes them susceptible to disease, so any reputable shop will quarantine new fish for a couple of weeks after they receive delivery. I personally always like to check that the dealer has quarantine tanks set aside for this purpose, and if they don’t, do ask what their policy is regarding new fish.

Secondly, check the conditions inside the fish tanks. If they look dirty and uncared for, or you see a few dead fish around the place, I would recommend not buying from this shop, the chances are that the fish you buy from them will not live long.

If you are happy with the shop you are at, watch carefully the fish that are caught for you. You want to have healthy specimens, and this you can usually see at a glance. The top fin should be standing tall, and the fish should have a good shape, i.e. nicely rounded underneath, not concave. Check also that it swims straight and streamlined. If you are looking to breed your fish, check that you know what sex the fish is, if possible. In livebearers, which are the easiest to breed, it is usually obvious by the dorsal fin, but egg-layers are not often easy, and sometimes, depending on the species, they can be impossible to tell apart.

At this point the shop with almost certainly put the freshwater tropical fish in plastic bags that they will tie up tight with as much air as possible left inside the bag. To ensure you give your fish as little stress as possible, it is advisable to put the plastic bag inside a thick paper bag, to keep the tropical fish in the dark as much as possible.

Now, get the fish home as gently and as quickly as you can, and float the plastic bags on top of the aquarium for twenty minutes or so. This will allow the fish to calm down, and the water temperature in the bag to match the temperature in the aquarium. After the twenty minutes is up, cut open the bag and release the fish, with as little of the dirt from the water, as possible. If you have a brand new aquarium you can release your fish straight in to it, otherwise I would recommend using a small quarantine tank for a few days just so you can protect the rest of your tropical fish.

Jackie Robinson is a keen hobbyist, and has kept freshwater tropical fish for over 20 years. Find out more information on JustTropicalFish.com Tropical Fish

Price : $13.57

Features

• Redwood
• 10"W x 8"H x 6-1/4"D
• Holds 3 1/2 lbs of seed
• Clear plastic lenses on two sides
• Hanging cord provided

Amazon.com Review

Watch songbirds feed as they perch on the ledge of this hanging wooden house. Lift the roof to load a wide array of seeds. Then sit back and enjoy your winged visitors as they return again and again. You’ll soon learn their preferred feeding schedule, so take note! Clear plastic walls allow you to check seed levels from both sides. The feeder is easily mounted from post, bracket, or branch, but be sure to choose a spot that cats and squirrels can’t easily reach.

The pet food industry, a billion-dollar, unregulated operation, feeds on the garbage that otherwise would wind up in landfills or be transformed into fertilizer. The hidden ingredients in a can of commercial pet food may include road kill and the rendered remains of cats and dogs. The pet food industry claims that its products constitute a complete and balanced diet but, in reality, commercial pet food is unfit for human or animal consumption.

Vegetable protein, the mainstay of dry dog foods, includes ground yellow corn, wheat shorts and middlings, soybean meal, rice husks, peanut meal and peanut shells (identified as cellulose on pet food labels). These often are little more than the sweepings from milling room floors. Stripped of their oil, germ and bran, these proteins are deficient in essential fatty acids, fat-soluble vitamins and antioxidants. Animal protein in commercial pet foods can include diseased meat, road kill, contaminated material from slaughterhouses, fecal matter, rendered cats and dogs and poultry feathers. The major source of animal protein comes from dead-stock removal operations that supply so-called 4-D animals-dead, diseased, dying or disabled-to receiving plants for hide, fat and meat removal. The meat (after being doused with charcoal and marked unfit for human consumption) may then be sold for pet food.

Rendering plants process decomposing animal carcasses, large road kill and euthanized dogs and cats into a dry protein product that is sold to the pet food industry. One small plant in Quebec, Ontario, renders 10 tons (22,000 pounds) of dogs and cats per week. The Quebec Ministry of Agriculture states that the fur is not removed from dogs and cats and that dead animals are cooked together with viscera, bones and fat at 115? C (235? F) for 20 minutes.

The US Food and Drug Administration’s Center for Veterinary Medicine (CVM) is aware of the use of rendered dogs and cats in pet foods, but has stated: CVM has not acted to specifically prohibit the rendering of pets. However, that is not to say that the practice of using this material in pet food is condoned by the CVM.

In both the US and Canada, the pet food industry is virtually self-regulated. In the US, the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) sets guidelines and definitions for animal feed, including pet foods. In Canada, the most prominent control is the Labeling Act, simply requiring product labels to state the name and address of the manufacturer, the weight of the product and whether it is dog or cat food. The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association (CVMA) and the Pet Food Association of Canada (PFAC) are voluntary organizations that, for the most part, rely on the integrity of the companies they certify to assure that product ingredients do not fall below minimum standards.

The majority-85 to 90% the pet food sold in Canada is manufactured by US-based multinationals. Under the terms of the US-Canada Free Trade Agreement, neither the CVMA nor PFAC exercises any control over the ingredients in cans of US pet food.

Pet food industry advertising promotes the idea that, to keep pets healthy, one must feed them commercially formulated pet foods. But such a diet contributes to cancer, fatal diseases, skin problems, allergies, hypertension, kidney and liver failure, heart disease and dental problems.

WE HAVE THE ANSWER!!!

This system was developed by DR. JANE BICKS, a nationally known and highly respected holistic veterinarian with over 30 years of experience. She has written several books on pet care. DR. BICKS was the PRESIDENT of the VETERINARY MEDICAL ASSOCIATION in NYC, and was appointed by MAYOR RUDOLPH GUILIANI to help start the largest animal shelter in the United States.

Our Product?

LIFE’S ABUNDANCE pet foods are manufactured from completely all natural sources.

REAL meats, vegetables, vitamins, minerals and of course, the much needed anti-oxidants. YOU CAN REST ASSURED YOU WILL BE PROVIDED PET FOOD THAT HAS THE HIGHEST QUALITY AND NUTRITIONAL STANDARDS IN THE INDUSTRY.

Please!!! If you care about your pet, you owe it to them to find out more. Visit us on-line at: http://www.Healthypetnet.com/DawnJ/

About The Author

Give your pet(s) the happiest, healthiest longest life possible. Please visit us at: http://www.Healthypetnet.com/DawnJ

I got into this business because I had an 11 yr. old shih tzu named Harry. He passed away after enduring canine urological syndrome, thyroid problems and in the end, Cushing’s disease. If I would have had the education about commercial pet foods a long time ago, he would probably still be here now.

Dj9352@charter.net

In researching for this Pet Stains Be Gone article, I came across a multitude of stain removal home remedies that I found very interesting and useful. I also found some super ready-made stain removal products.

Being a member of long standing in the current “real world” I understand that there are some of us that really enjoy following a recipe and making our own product to do a job. While there are others that want and need to remove pet stains the “easy way” with a commercial stain product.

With both of these thoughts in mind I am going to fulfill all of your needs.

First of all, I would like to thank all of the people in the Internet world that offered their own home remedies. It is impossible for me to know who you are, but please know if I could; I would send each of you a personal thank you note, for sharing your wisdom with all of us.

For those of you that are interested in the commercial ready to go products, you too, will have many choices.

However, to begin with we are going to bring on the vinegar, baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, dish detergent, water and towels. Let the pet stain removal begin.

In order to remove pet stains, we have to know where they are; some are usually right before our eyes while others are hidden in deep dark corners.

A black light (which can be purchased on the Internet, pet stores or craft stores) is the perfect tool to have. A black light will be able to pick up any old dried up stains that you never would find otherwise.

Of course, the best stain to find is the fresh one, but truthfully finding no stains is even better. However, if you have a cat or dog, at one time or another you will have to confront a pet stain or two.

Before we go any further, I want to remind you that these suggestions have come from people that have used them on their pet stains. I have not tried them and if I were to use them I would first try the solution on a piece of carpet that is hidden from view or on a piece of scrap carpet. The reason for that is to make certain the solution will not fade the carpet or have any other type of chemical reaction.

Fresh urine stains that are caught almost immediately are among the easiest to remove. The secret here is to blot, blot and blot some more with a clean dry towel. A white towel is recommended, but towels don’t run and I feel any towel that is clean and dry should work well (besides I don’t own a white towel.)

The purpose here is to soak up as much of the urine as you can, stand on the towel to add more weight and pressure.

If you remember to BLOT your carpet as you are cleaning the stains up, you are less likely to damage any of the carpet fibers. Brushing or rubbing tends to fray the fibers and even though the stain is gone, you can tell where the damage was done by the difference in the carpet’s appearance.

The next IMPORTANT thing to remember is DO NOT use ammonia or ammonia based product on any pet stain. The ammonia (it smells like urine to a pet) will attract the pet and encourage it to do the dirty deed again.

When cleaning feces up from a carpet be careful not to scrape the carpet fibers, remove the waste as gently as possible. Wet a small towel with water and dish detergent and gently clean up the rest of the waste with some pressure while blotting the spot. Then mix a ½ cup of white vinegar with about a quart of warm water and work this solution in to the carpet with your hands (rubber gloves recommended) or a sponge (do not rub hard), blot up with several towels, stand on the spot to apply more pressure.

Remove the wet towels, add several more dry towels folded to add more thickness and place several real heavy books or something else that is heavy on the towels and let sit overnight or at least several hours. Remove the towels, let air dry if not dry and fluff up area with your hand or a very soft brush.

For old stains that you need a black light to find, start out with a tablespoon of dish detergent into a cup of warm water. Slowly work into the stain; blot with a clean dry towel.

Then mix about a 1/3-cup of white vinegar into a 2/3 cup of warm water and work that into the stain blot again. Next use the same detergent solution and work that once more into the spot, blot and rinse with clear warm water. Blot as much of t he water out of t he spot as you can, let air dry and fluff up the carpet carefully. The odor and stain should be gone for good.

I have read that after you have cleaned up the stain using the vinegar and water route it is a good idea to sprinkle baking soda on the spot, let it sit for 24 hours and then vacuum it up and tat certainly will eliminate any possible leftover odor.

Another great tip is to use rubbing alcohol on the spot, some say use full strength and other say to use 1/3 water, 1/3 white vinegar and 1/3 alcohol, do it twice, blot, let dry and vacuum.

Hydrogen peroxide (quart size0 plus1/2 cup baking soda and a tablespoon of dish detergent mixed together and put in a spray bottle, spray the spot and of course, blot, blot and blot some more and then vacuum up.

Some say an inch of table salt spread over the stain and then let it sit for 2 or 3 hours then vacuum will make the stain and odor disappear.

Here are some household product ideas that have worked for some people. Again I advise you to test them on a spot before you jump in and use them.

A tablespoon of “Oxiclean” mixed into a spray bottle of hot water spray onto the stain work it in with your hand (inexpensive rubber gloves are great for this,) blot and let dry.

Another cat and dog lover says pouring “Listerine” straight from the bottle onto the spot, blot and odor is gone.

How about this one, get a bottle of “Awesome Orange Degreaser” from the “Dollar Store” pour it in the carpet and the odor is gone and so is the stain, of course, you need to blot the liquid out of the carpet.

”Simple Green” undiluted sprayed on a urine spot on concrete made the odor disappear completely. The “Simple Green” odor lasted for a few days, but that smelled better than the cat urine.

”Spray and Wash” stain remover, sprayed on to the spot and blotted off supposedly removes the stain and odor.

My last interesting pet stain and odor remover is using “shaving cream” to remove both the stain and odor. Gently work it into the stain and blot it off.

I find home remedies so interesting. I often wonder how did anyone think of using these things to remove stains. My guess is necessity is the power behind invention.

I have found several good sources for “all ready made” pet spot removers. Again I have not tried them because so far my guys have left me stain free except for a few vomit spots on the middle of a clean comforter or two. I truly believe my pet door out into the yard has been my lifesaver.

From my research I have found these products to have strong approval ratings.

1. Urine-off can be found on InstallerStore.com and many other

places on the Internet. It is supposed to be very good.

2. Nature’s Miracle can be found on the Internet. It is

reasonable in price and I have heard good comments on it.

3. OxiClean Carpet and Stain Remover also is found on the

Internet and has had some good reports.

4. Get Serious Stain and Odor Remover also has very good

reports and can be found on the Internet.

Having a pet is like having a child, there is never a dull moment. It is a lifetime commitment and I truly feel if you cannot make that commitment, please do not get a pet. Do not adopt a pet and then if the animal displeases you haul it off to the animal shelter to be disposed of.

Animals are living breathing creatures, they give us their love and devotion and they deserve ours in return.

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As traveling with pets becomes increasingly more frequent a practice, the number of pets injured while away from home is steadily escalating. When a cat or dog is unfamiliar with its surroundings, the animal may be more prone to various types of injuries, especially if the animal is particularly curious and overly inquisitive. Common pet travel injuries and illnesses include: insect stings, motion sickness, pet allergies, cuts, scrapes, and swallowing foreign objects. More serious injuries such as poisoning, infection, and broken bones may also occur.

Pet travel will become a much safer and more rewarding experience once pet owners are better equipped to handle emergency situations. Both knowledge of first aid, and the equipment available to facilitate such care are essential to ensure the best possible outcome for an injured pet. It is best to keep in mind the goals of administering pet first aid: first, to prevent further injury, and second, to minimize discomfort until the animal can be safely transported to a veterinarian.

These objectives determine much of what should be included inside a pet first aid kit. A dog or cat with a preexisting condition or illness may require the presence of additional items. The pet owner should decide what tools, medicines, and equipment to add depending upon their pet’s specific needs. All items should be stored in a waterproof container that can be closed securely.

Sample items in a pet first aid kit may include:

- Pet information card with pet’s current health information, veterinarian’s address and telephone number. Also include poison control hotline number.
- Latex gloves, cotton swabs, and hand wipes
- Rectal thermometer, and lubricating jelly pack
- Scissors, tweezers, nail clippers, oral syringe
- Triple antibiotic ointment, hydrocortisone cream
- Sterile eye flush, eyedropper
- Old necktie (for making a muzzle)
- Bandaging materials (gauze squares and bandage tape)
- Clean towel
- Spare collar and leash
- Pet first aid booklet

Remember to package spillable items in leak-proof plastic bags, and rotate items so that medications and ointments do not expire. Store the pet first aid kit safely away from children and pets.

In a perfect world there would be no use for a pet first aid kit, but do not procrastinate. Having the necessary tools and equipment on hand during a critical situation can make a difference in the health and safety of your pet.

After receiving her doctorate in 2001, R. G. Kirk has published numerous articles on a wide range of topics. She is currently the marketing director for cruisecat.com cruisecat.com - a company that provides international travel opportunities, and focuses on luxury pet vacations.