Pets Smile Plus

Wolves are magnificent and majestic creatures that have shared this planet with us for possibly as long as 12,000 years. They have a long history as one of nature’s large predators. In the relatively short time that people have taken over almost everywhere on this planet, the habitat for wolves and other species of animal has diminished making it difficult for survival but with the help of environmentalists, wolves have been protected and are making a come back.

The wolf is the ancestor of our dogs of today. What’s cool about that is they co-exist in the present but there are major differences between them. Dogs have been bred over such a long period of time that they are for the most part completely domesticated. The wolf on the other hand commands respect. There is a

Worrying about your dog’s health can be such a nuisance. There may actually be so many questions regarding your dog’s health that may remain unanswered if you don’t seek proper advice. There is no sense worrying about these things, because you should actually be at peace about your dog’s health. This is the way it should be and it’s actually not hard to do.

Dealing with Dog Health Worries

Really, all you have to do is relax and do the necessary research about the specific health concern that you are bothered with. Is it regarding dental care, respiratory health problems, or is it with regards to nutrition and hygiene? Whatever it may be, the answers are available on various online sites. That is why finding answers to your dog health-related questions are actually easier than you think.

However, if you want a more detailed explanation and you want the comforting words of a professional then you might as well consult an animal doctor. In fact, there are even online forums where you can actually chat with animal doctors if you are worried about consultation costs. Now, if knowing the answers to such questions won’t be able to appease your worrisome state, then you might as well get health insurance for your dog.

Dog Health Insurance

Yes, there is such a thing! Health insurance for your beloved dog just might give you the peace of mind you need if you are very bothered about its health. The cost of such will depend greatly on the plan that you intend to purchase. There are a number of health insurance programs available for your pet(s), and all you have to do is choose the most suitable one.

You may also ask your veterinarian about such an option, and seek his/her advice as to which insurance plan to take. Having a health insurance for your dog may give you peace of mind because you know you’ll be ready whatever health problems your dog may have in the future. It is important to know that the cost of your dog’s insurance will depend on a number of factors such as your dog’s age, dog’s breed, and its actual health status. Thus, your animal doctor may be able to give you sound advice where your dog’s health and insurance is concerned.

At this point, you are purchasing your peace of mind, not to mention the possibility of saving you a lot of money if ever that time comes when your dog’s insurance will need to cover a major operation or whatnot. While there really is no point obsessing about it, there is also no harm in being prepared especially if your dog means the world to you.

Having a dog has truly become more complicated in the recent years. On the other hand, it may have actually been made easier because of so many options given to pet owners where nutrition, health, and safety are concerned. One thing is for sure, the stress on the importance of providing suitable health and living requirements for pets has increased and been made more profound.

Do you want to know more about 1800bestbuy.com/dog.php dog care or anything about the crazy world of dogs? Visit us or share your opinions at theworldsbesthomepage.com the worlds best homepage or free-content-resource.com free content resource

Spring is here, which means the warm weather months will be upon us. For most Great Dane owners, we’re relieved. Our Great Danes can run loose in the yard while we air-out our homes from the long winter months. Hibernation is over and we can take our furry friends to the park, the beach, and on trips. But we want to have a safe summer! In order to do that, we should glance over a few tips and rules for the safety of our Great Danes. For most of you, these are just reminders. For new pet owners, these should be used as a guideline:

Traveling by Car

On very hot days in particular, try not to take long car rides with your Great Dane. While you’re behind the wheel, consider your Great Dane’s feelings. YOU may not be warm enough to have the air conditioning on. What if you were wearing a down jacket? Your Great Dane’s coat is just like a down jacket. Consider his comfort. Always provide plenty of water to prevent dehydration.

Stopping at the Store ‘real quick’

Forget it. It doesn’t matter how quick it is. Do not leave your dog in the car while you’re shopping in the summer. It’s cruel. It’s inhumane. If someone wants to report you–they can, they will, and they should. You decided to take your Great Dane with you. If you plan to go shopping or window-browsing, leave your dog at home. While this may sound harsh, we’re very aware of the repercussions of leaving your dog in a locked car: death. On a hot summer day–your dog can succumb to fatality in less than five minutes in a hot car. Pease be responsible.

Poisonous Foliage

If you see mushrooms growing in your yard, remove them immediately. Your Great Dane can become seriously ill from eating them. Some plants and berries are hazardous to your Great Dane’s health as well. If you’re not sure which plants pose a threat, research the shrubs and plant-life in your yard to see if they’re pet-friendly.

Mowing Your Lawn

Some Great Danes may be petrified of your lawn mower, others may think of it as a game or a noisy thing they wish to attack. Regardless of how ‘funny‘ it is, accidents easily happen this way each summer. Your Great Dane should not be in the vicinity when you’re cutting grass. Most vital veins are located in your pet’s limbs. Should they get cut by your mower, they may die from their injury.

Jen Carter is staff writer for

When it comes to buying dog dishes, you have a lot of options, from using an old pot to buying a hand-thrown ceramic bowl with your dog’s name painted on it. Dishes designed to store up to a couple of days’ worth of food or water are available, as are paper bowls good for one meal only (the latter most commonly used at boarding kennels and veterinary hospitals).

You will probably prefer sturdy dishes of molded plastic or stainless steel that resist chewing or scratching and can be sterilized in the dishwasher. These dishes – especially stainless steel - retain their good looks, handle any abuse a dog can dish out, and last forever. Dishes that damage easily are hard to keep clean and invite the buildup of food and bacteria in the dents and scratches. Some dogs also have a sensitivity to plastic bowls.

For tall dogs, consider an elevated unit that brings the bowl up to the dog’s level, an especially nice product for older dogs. For dogs with long, silky ears - like cocker spaniels - look for bowls with a narrow opening and high sloped sides to keep that fur out of the muck. If your dog is a ravenous eater, a bowl with a nonskid base will help keep the dish from ending up sliding all over the house.

Some people are a little squeamish about putting dog dishes in the dishwasher, but, honestly, if your dishwasher’s doing its job right, the water will be hot enough to render everything in it clean enough for you to eat out of.

The Water Bowl

While food dishes should be picked up, washed, and put away after meals, water dishes need to be kept full and available at all times. Here, too, stainless steel is your best choice. Dishes with reservoirs are fine, but they’re hard to keep clean. And, unless your dog needs a lot of water, these products get mucky before the water needs to be refilled.

For outside water, the “Lixit,” available in any pet-supply store or catalog, has long been a popular device. Attached to a faucet, it releases fresh water when the dog licks or nuzzles the trigger - and stops the flow when the dog is through. They need to be installed in a protected area, however, for the metal can become frying-pan hot if exposed to full summer sun.

All water sources need to be sheltered from both heat and freezing cold, or they won’t be available to your dog - a potentially deadly situation in extreme weather. As for keeping water warm, there are heated bowls available to keep water from freezing, as well as special devices designed to fit into buckets to do the same thing.

If you and your dog are constantly on the go, look into a more portable water source. Several different kinds of traveling bowls are designed to reduce splashing, and some collapsible products can be put away in a space as small as a fanny pack.

John Edwards is a long time dog lover. Visit his website to learn which

In this article i am going to discuss rescue dogs and what to avoid when looking for a rescue dog. Like any dog a rescue dog can make your life hell. Some people are forced to walk there dog at ridiculously early of late times just to avoid seeing other people or dogs. Many dogs have aggression problems that may take years to get over thats if they ever get over there aggressive behaviors. You can make a dog not attack people/dogs but you cannot make a dog like people or dogs. In this article i will try to inform you of what can be cured easily and what cannot be cured easily.

Most people feel a puppy is a more secure choice than a rescue dog this simply isn’t the case. When you select a rescue dog you can asses its temperament and see it around strangers and other dogs. Where as when you buy a puppy your really just buying a little bundle of flesh that could mature into a dog with some serious problems. There are advantages to having a puppy such as you can meet the parents and even grandparents in some cases. The puppies breeder will also know the complete family history and any genetic medical problems that may arise.

There are a lot of things to avoid when selecting a new rescue dog. Aggressive male dogs around the age of ten months who were not previously aggressive have usually become dominant due to hormonal reactions. This is the time when male dogs who would become aggressive will start to show it. So picking a male rescue dog before this age may cause you to end up with a different dog a few months down the line that you originally wanted. Female dogs on the other hand tend to either be aggressive when first introduced to other dogs or around the time of there first season. With female dogs turn aggressive when first introduced to other dogs may get over it with some socialization however there are a lot who do not. If a female dog who is aggressive at first introduction is not good with other dogs after around six week of socialization then the dog is unlikely to be good with other dogs for quiet some time.

Try and avoid any dog who displays aggressive tendency’s. Many nervous dogs will show aggression so if its a nervous dog your interested in then make sure you check it around as much as possible. If the nervous dog you are interested in shows no aggression then its properly a good selection as if it wont bite while afraid then it properly wont be aggressive under normal circumstances.

Dogs who are very confident and aggressive are more difficult to deal with. Fear is a big reason for aggression but there are many others some dogs are just bullies other dogs are dominant. Dogs who are bullies are extremely difficult to deal with as they are enjoying doing what there doing. Dominant dogs are sometimes easier and some times harder to deal with than nervous dogs.

Some dog breeds are more prone to certain types of aggression. Many dogs in the herding breed become nervous and aggressive because of this. Others groups have there own problems terriers tend to be dominant and some times bullies. The working group is another breed who can show dominance. In my opinion the group of dogs who are less likely to suffer from aggressive problems are the gun dog group. The gun dog group generally makes very god pets and are superb with children. Of course breed is only a part of what makes a dogs nature. The purpose of why a dog was bred by its breeder is another big factor. Some breeders breed for nature some for showing and others for working ability. These factors are all a huge thing to consider when selecting a rescue dog or when selecting a puppy.

Always remember to be careful when selecting a dog theres no guarantee a dog will ever get over aggressive tendency’s. The most important thing is to make sure of that the dog has a good nature theres absolutely no substitute for a good nature. Make sure you see the dog in as many different situations as possible and look into the breed and what the breed is bred for in this day and age.

Ashley Peach’s websites include dog-toy.co.uk/dogproducts/?page=6 puppy toys, dog-toy.co.uk/dogproducts/?page=14 soft dog beds and dog-toy.co.uk/dogproducts/?page=11 dog training equipment.

Do you have a child who is longing for a pet but can’t have one because of allergies? Do you want a low maintenance pet with a long lifespan and few needs? Then the African Clawed Frog is for you.

The African Clawed Frog or Xenopus Laevis is a wonderful pet for people who have allergies or live in a place that doesn’t allow furry pets. They also are great learning tools for schoolrooms and for children to learn about how a frog changes from a tadpole to an adult.

You can purchase a frog from Grow-A-Frog online, or from the fish section of your local department store. These frogs are used extensively in laboratories for research because of the properties of their skin. They used to be used for pregnancy detection before more sophisticated tests were available and were released into the wild in the USA when they were no longer needed. Because the frogs will eat just about anything and have a long lifespan, they started to threaten the local fish and frog populations, and are therefore not legal in some states.

Habitat

African Clawed Frogs are from the cooler places in Africa. They like to live in areas of stagnant fresh water like ponds, rivers, and pools. For your frog, you will want to buy an aquarium and allow for ten gallons of water per frog. Because your frog breathes air, the water should be six to twelve inches deep so he can swim to the surface easily. The tap water has to sit for 24 hours before you put the frog in it, or use a dechlorinator crystal you can buy from Grow-A-Frog. Frogs are happiest when the water temperature is about 74-78 degrees F, so you may need an aquarium heater. A filter can be used to keep the water clean.

Whether or not to use gravel or stones on the bottom of the tank is debatable. Some frogs will eat the gravel if it is small, and they could die. If the stones are big enough, you could put them on the bottom. Also, provide your frog with some cover to hide, with plastic plants and decorations. Don’t use real plants, because your frog will destroy them.

Be sure to have a tight fitting lid on the top of the aquarium. Your frog is a master at escape and can jump right out of most places.

You don’t have to use direct light or artificial light for your frog. They like indirect light the best.

Food

African Clawed Frogs are not fussy eaters. You can feed them the prepared fish pellets from Grow-A-Frog, or you can feed them brine shrimp, meal worms, guppies, or Tetra Rept-min. They will even eat the fish in your aquarium, so be careful you don’t put them in a tank with little fish.

Lifespan

These frogs have an official lifespan of eight to ten years in captivity, but most African Clawed frog owners will tell you their frogs can live fifteen to twenty years.

Care

Clean the water once a week, less if you use a filter. Feed him. Watch him (don’t hold the frog; they have chemicals in their skin which may cause an allergic reaction for some people). Listen to him sing! (males sing, females don’t).

Benefits

The African Clawed frog if bought as a tadpole is a great learning tool for children. They will get to watch the frog grow from tadpole to adult swimming frog. If you buy a male and a female frog, with some luck, you can watch the mating process and enjoy the babies that may result.

The male frog has interesting vocalizations for different occasions. There is the ‘feed me’ song, the ‘I want a mate’ song, and the singing for singing sake song. Both sexes use their front legs to grab and eat, and look like they are begging for more food.

If you want a non-allergic pet with interesting habits and simple requirements, than the African Clawed Frog is for you!

This article has been submitted in affiliation with PetLovers.Com/ PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for PetLovers.Com/ Pet Forums.

Mary Casey is the proud owner of a sixteen-year-old African Clawed Frog named Mup.

AQUARIUM FILTERS

There are several different kinds of aquarium filters, each with advantages and disadvantages. Most work best when used in combination to compliment each other, this redundancy is also important for peace of mind in case one filter fails, another will keep your aquarium filtering. I give my opinion too with each of these types of filters, based on 28 years maintaining a Large Aquarium maintenance company in Los Angeles, California. I used many different types and brands of filters during this time, and continue to try new ones out.

UNDERGRAVEL (UGF)

An old standby that is good for biological filtration (the conversion of fish waste from ammonia and nitrites to less harmful nitrates), but is poor for mechanical filtration (the removal of debris- organic and inorganic). Although I have use many over the years with good results, I do not generally recommend them anymore. Most also do not perform chemical filtration although some have small carbon cartridges that go on the exhaust of the lift tube (Lee’s makes such a UGF). They are also not real good for planted aquariums; the roots have a hard time thriving with the filter plants just below the gravel (although you add potted aquarium plants to aquariums with UGFs). UGF are also poor at denitrification, as they do not allow for the fine sand and anaerobic bacteria needed for Nitrate removal.

If used, I recommend a HOB (power filter) as a compliment, they have better mechanical and chemical filtration, but tend to be lacking in biological filtration (some are better than others for this).

HANG ON BACK-POWER FILTERS (HOB)

Another more popular filter now, these filters are good for mechanical and chemical filtration, and sometimes biological filtration. This does vary widely with the model though. The Aqua Clear is better than most for biological filtration, but it’s design tend to lead to flow-by, resulting in poor mechanical filtration (they also have poor impellers, and in my experience, have a higher than normal break down record). The Penguin has good mechanical filtration (little flow-by), but are not as good for bio filtration, EVEN with the Bio-Wheel! I have run many Penguins since they came out, but their bio-wheels tend to stop easily, and I have run ammonia and nitrite tests with heavily loaded aquariums and observed little difference with or without (I added a seeded Sponge filter to these same tanks and observed an immediate improvement in these levels).
Whisper and ReSun use cartridges that are best rinsed in used aquarium water, or else should have a small sponge placed in them to preserve bio colonies, otherwise these would be my HOB of choice.

HOB filters are good compliments to sponge filters or under gravel filters.

SPONGE FILTERS

Probably one of the most under rated filters available. These filters are excellent biological filters and reasonable mechanical filters. They are simple and inexpensive. The type of sponge material makes a large difference in the filters bio capacity. Reticulated filter foam is the preferred sponge material. One of the sponge filters benefits is their ease in cleaning, which in turn lowers the amount of organic material being broken down in the nitrogen cycle. It takes only minute to clean a sponge filter by rinsing it used aquarium water, while it may take half an hour to clean a canister filter.

Internal filters and HOB small aquariums are good compliments to sponge filters. Canister filters are good compliments to sponge filters in large aquariums.
I have a lot more information about sponge filters in my article: ” spongefilter.blogspot.com/” target=”_blank Sponge Filters”

INTERNAL FILTERS

Not as common a filter but a much less alternative to expensive and bulky canister filters. Internal filters are basically a power head with a filter of varying capacity attached. They are useful for improved water circulation, generally are good mechanical and biological filters (although generally they do not have a large capacity). They are a great secondary or even third filter in large aquariums, and a good secondary are even primary filter in small aquariums (under 60 gallons).
Internal filters are a good compliment to almost any filter (especially fluidized).
I prefer the Via Aqua internal filters for the flow rates, internal sponges and durability.

CANISTER FILTERS

Popular filters for larger aquariums in particular, Canister filters are known for their large capacity, which sometimes can be their problem. Many aquarists will not clean canister filters often enough as they are “still running well”, but in reality are have a large build up of organic sludge turning them into ‘nitrate factories”. I do recommend them if they are serviced regularly, as their ability to hold large amounts of different filter media and their excellent mechanical filtration set canister filters above most other filters. For the money I prefer the Via Aqua or Jebo (the Jebo is the same basic filter), the Eheim is excellent but way over priced for the slightly better quality. The Magnum has unique convertible features (the ability to switch between standard canister filtration and micron), but their capacity is poor compared to the rest. Although popular, I am less than impressed with the Fluval. They have weak motors, poorly designed impellers, and have a larger flow-by than most others. I have had dozens of Fluvals on my maintenance route over the years, and their longevity is less than most others.

Canister filters are good compliments to internal and sponge filters.

WET/DRY FILTERS

Popular with marine aquariums in particular, these filters are great biological filters, but poor mechanical filters. They also can become “nitrate factories” like canister filters if not maintained properly.

They are two basic types; the under tank wet/dry which uses a siphon to take aquarium water out to the “sump” where the bio balls are other biological media are, and uses a pump or powerhead to return the water. With this type of wet/dry you want to make sure that you do not over fill the aquarium past where the sump will over flow with the pump off in case of a power or pump failure. This type also usually has a pre filter box to add mechanical filtration to the wet/dry. You can run a variety of bio media in this type of wet/dry. Bio balls and ceramic bio media are popular; live rock, plant refuguiums, sponge filters attached to the pump intake, or all of the above are also popular.

The other type is the built into the back wet/dry. These wet/drys are usually much more reasonably priced (along with the aquarium they are attached to). They usually do not have the versatility or capacity as the under tank wet/drys do though.
Internal filters are usually good compliments to wet/dry filters.

FLUIDIZED BED FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters only. They work well attached to an internal or canister filer (I prefer an internal). Fluidized bed filters use fine sand kept suspended in a water flow for aerobic biological filtration. The plus is they are basically self cleaning as the sand is constantly rubbing against other grains keeping down the organic buildup. The negative is do not supply a lot of oxygen for the aerobic bacteria. I have set up fluidized filters in marine aquariums in place of wet/drys with excellent results (I set up a whole marine aquarium store department this way). But I strongly recommend other filters (especially internal) to make up for the weakness of fluidized filters. If properly installed, their strengths will shine (they are not the nitrate factories that wet/drys are).

MUD FILTERS

These filters are primarily biological filters. Their advantage is they work both aerobically and anaerobically (removing nitrates). They are not good as the only filter and do not replace mechanical or even germicidal filtration (in marine). They do make an excellent alternative to sometimes difficult to use protein skimmers.

GERMACIDAL FILTRATION

Germicidal filtration is the use of UVC radiation or ozone to kill disease pathogens and improve the Redox Potential in aquariums. I believe they are essential to a healthy marine fish aquarium. But are equally important to expensive and sometimes delicate freshwater fish such as Discus. Many articles I have read state that a UV is not that beneficial to an established aquarium as a healthy aquarium depends on beneficial bacteria typically growing on media in your filter which neutralize ammonia. Unfortunately the problem with this statement is beneficial bacteria belongs in the filter, not in the open water. Also this is great for advanced aquarists who are not adding fish and have a healthy Redox Potential, but not in the real world of average and above average aquarists that I have dealt with in the 100s of aquariums I have serviced.
I have a very in depth article about “Why you should use a UV Sterilizer and how it works” . I strongly recommend reading this article.

PROTEIN SKIMMER;

Protein skimmers remove nitrogenous wastes (protein based organic waste) via foam refraction. The protein skimmer collects this waste in a cup, where it is then emptied. There are pump driven and air driven models. Protein skimmers generally only work in marine aquariums where they are very popular in reef aquaria, as they are needed to keep nitrates below .20 ppm for the delicate marine invertebrates. The advantages are that they remove nitrogenous waste before they can go thru the nitrogen cycle and become nitrates. The disadvantages are they are messy, take frequent adjustments (at least on many commercial models), and in my experience, over rated. I have kept many reef aquariums successfully with and without protein skimmers (I believe lighting such as metal halide is more important to a successful reef aquarium than a protein skimmer).
The key to keeping low nitrates without a protein skimmer is;

*Proper feeding of foods with highly digestible proteins so as to lower the nitrogenous waste produced.

*Good anaerobic filtration via live rock, live sand, or mud filtration.

*Plant refugiums and or good plant and green algae growth in the aquarium.

*Proper and frequent cleaning procedures. Using a gravel vacuum (or better, the Aquarium Cleaning Machine , which with recirculation of water thru a micron cartridge after the initial water change, insures better waste removal with less water changed.) to remove waste before it can go thru the nitrogen cycle, but not digging so deep so as to disturb anaerobic filtration in the sand (I prefer a layer of fine sand under #3 gravel to achieve this).

For my full Aquarium Filters article (pictures and much more information), please visit this site:
americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Filtration.html” target=”_blank “Aquarium Filtration (Filters); how they work, benefits, and trouble shooting”

By Carl Strohmeyer

americanaquariumproducts.com/ americanaquariumproducts.com/

When it comes to keeping your canine companion healthy both inside and out, it’s important for owners to know which parasites see your dog as the perfect host.

One of the lesser-known parasites that poses a danger to dogs is the whipworm. Whipworms, like most parasites, are resilient. In egg form, their hard shells allow them to survive outdoors in the soil for years in the time. In many ways, whipworms are like hookworms, but instead of ending in a hook shape, one end of this worm tapers to a narrow, whip-like point.

Unlike hookworms, whipworms can’t enter the body through the skin. The only way for your dog to contract them is by eating the eggs. Whipworms exist throughout North America, and transmission is easy if your dog has any contact with other dogs. The long-lived eggs can show up in the soil, dog toys, discarded bones and water dishes. Once eaten, whipworms then grow to maturity inside your dog’s digestive system.

When they reach maturity, the adult worms fasten themselves to the large intestine and the cecum, a transitional pouch between the large and small intestine. Here, these nasty little parasites slash and puncture the intestinal walls in order to feed. The female starts to lay her eggs, which the dog excretes through the feces.

Symptoms for whipworm resemble those for other worms, such as hookworm. Many dogs can carry a certain number of whipworms without showing distress, but past a certain point, your dog may begin to exhibit signs such as a dull coat, anemia, rapid weight loss, and a loose and bloody stool. He may also begin vomiting up a yellow-green substance. In very severe cases, the worms may begin to puncture the intestinal wall, to the degree that the intestine begins to stick to the body wall. In this case, you might see your dog licking and worrying his right flank.

When you take your dog to the vet, it may take some time to diagnose him with whipworm. Whipworms lay eggs only intermittently, and even when they’re actively releasing eggs, any diarrhea in your dog can make the eggs hard to find. Typically, vets will perform four stool samples over four days before ruling out whipworm.

If your vet finds whipworm eggs, she’ll administer a potent dewormer. But the dewormers are only effective against whipworms in their adult form. As a result, you’ll probably need to re-treat your dog.

There are no simple, foolproof ways of removing whipworm eggs from the soil around your house. However, a contaminated environment can infect your dog over and over again. The best way to combat reinfestation is to make sure your dog’s quarters are sunny and dry, since whipworm eggs require moisture. Try to place him in an area of fresh new gravel, pavement or soil.

About the Author

Nathan Fischer writes for Poodle-oo, a site for

There are several effective techniques to stop your cat from getting on the counter tops. The key to correcting this bad cat behavior is to either catch them in the act or have devices in place that are designed to catch them. Your cat will eventually learn to stay off the counter top through negative reinforcement techniques.

When your cat associates negative conditions as a result of a certain behavior, they naturally learn to avoid that behavior. It may take a while but eventually your cat will get it. You must catch them in the act so it is important to use various methods for this.

To prevent your cat from getting on the counter tops, try laying several mousetraps on the surface, facing down. When a trap activates as a result of your cat sniffing or moving it, the abrupt sound and action is startling. If your cat associates this sudden scare with getting on the counter, they will eventually stop!

Another method you may want to try is putting aluminum foil on your counter top. Most cats hate the feeling of walking on aluminum foil. Crumple the foil up first and then unfold it so that the result is a bumpy surface texture.

If you are around to immediately discipline your cat when he jumps up on the counter, try yelling “NO” and nudging them off with your arm. You can also try using a can filled with coins that you can shake at them. Cats hate this loud noise and will usually run.

You can also use a squirt bottle full of water or a can of compressed air. Once again make sure you catch them on the counter when you spray it at them. Be careful not to spray either item too close to your cat, both will work very well from a distance.

So there you have it, some effective ways to stop your cat from getting on the counter top. Correcting many types of bad cat behavior will take time and persistence. Try multiple combinations of these simple techniques and you will soon have success in correcting your cat’s bad behavior.

Wait! Don’t give up on your cat! A well planned behavior program may be all your kitty needs. catutah.com/reviews/product1.html Go here for simple tips to help you get your feline inline!

I recently returned from Japan – my old stomping
grounds. Now I haven’t been to France lately so
can’t say, but I would definitely rank the dogs
of Japan as amongst the best dressed! Louis Vuitton,
Gucci, Fendi and Burberry dog accessories and apparel
were in evidence everywhere!

It wasn’t always like that. When I was growing up
in Japan, dogs were guard dogs and lived in the
dog house just at the entrance to the family
home. I remember our first dog. Dad brought him
home from the country as a pup. Tooziek was a
black dog, had a curly tail, pointy ears and a
great disposition. All us kids loved him dearly.
He was always part of our adventures!

Unlike today’s well dressed and pampered dog,
there were no dog clothes then. A good leather
collar and a leash to match meant you and your
dog were stepping out in style. A shiny coat
meant that the dog was well cared for – fed
properly and brushed! A sturdy dog house provided
shelter from the cold, the heat and the rain. Of
course mom made sure that Tooziek’s floor was
always lined with a soft and dry bed to sleep on.
Between meals there was always a bowl of fresh
water.

Affluence and changing lifestyles go hand in hand
and obviously this goes not only for people but
for pet parents and their dogs as well. The
basics are always there. Ensure that your dog is
always well cared for … and if you can add a bit
of fashion and flare, well why not?

Valentina Bellicova is a world traveller, an author and a public speaker. An ardent student of life, she obsserves that every human is bettered for having had a dog in their life. Visit her online dog emporium at sitbooboosit.com sitbooboosit.com