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In the Pavillion of Green Ripples in the Imperial Garden, Forbidden City, Beijing (formerly Peking), China, ShihTzu romped with each other, the enunchs, and the Empress and her attendants. Shih Tzu was a highly valued companion of the Palace.

The Summer Palace, Peking (now called Beijing), was where the Dowager Empress ruled her Empire during the summer months. Her Shih Tzu and favorite attendants resided in the Summer Palace throughout her annual stay.

An American was actually among the very first to receive a Shih Tzu as a gift from the Dowager Empress. Sarah Conger, wife of American Minister to China Edwin H. Conger, received the Shih Tzu from the Dowager Empress in 1903.

Centuries ago when East met West on the Ancient Silk Trade Route various Maltese type dogs were mated with Oriental type dogs. The white Shih Tzu is a “throwback” result from the genetic influence of infusion of Maltese bloodlines. I have one Shih Tzu who resembles a Maltese and is solid white. Her name is Blondie. Blondie’s pedigree states all Shih Tzu. I have had people to ask me if Blondie was Maltese.

There is only one known photo of the Dowager Empress with any of Shih Tzu. The photo was taken in a Courtyard scene in 1903 with her ladies in waiting. Various eunuchs are on either side of the Princess. Chief Eunuch Li Lein-Yang helped guide the Shih Tzu breeding program and is pictured with the Dowager Empress. At the Empress’ feet is Hai Ling (Sea Otter), a solid black Shih Tzu, the Empress favorite, who sired many Shih Tzu of various colors within the Palace. This black Shih Tzu reminds me very much of my own solid black Shih Tzu, Duke. Duke has also sired many of the Stain Glass Shih Tzu puppies and of various colors. I also have to admit my Duke is “one” of my favorites of all time.

There is strong indication that the ShihTzu developed in China from ancient lines of dogs of Tibet. One theory is that these ancestors of the modern Shih Tzu were presented by Tibetan Lamas to royal visitors from Chinese courts and taken by them back to Peking, where they were nurtured and cherished as prized possessions of the emperors, and members of the court. Another theory is that the Shih Tzu were exchanged by royal travelers and merchants who were of many cultures and societies traveling along that segment of the ancient “Silk Trade Route” that runs in a generally west to east route from Lhasa, Tibet, to Peking (now known as Beijing), China.

All Oriental dogs, which would include the Shih Tzu, had forms which were quite similar, and was a direct result of the influence of Buddhism. The Lion was said to have been Buddha’s constant companion and on several occasions saved him from death or capture by his enemies. Because the Chinese considered the lion symbolic of Buddha, they used “the King of the Beasts” as a model for breeding their dogs. Among the Oriental dogs produced are the Shih Tzu, the Pekingese, the Chow Chow, the Lhasa Apso, the Spitz, and the Pug.

The lion, as a model for our Shih Tzu, was not native to China, so early Chinese had little concept as to what the lion looked like. It is most likely early Chinese sculptors carved lions from descriptions received about the beasts, and that the Chinese dogs, including our Shih Tzu, were bred to look like the statues rather than like lions themselves.

Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: stainglassshihtzus.com stainglassshihtzus.com

Having an overly aggressive dog is not only embarrassing, it
can be a real problem when you’re trying to walk your dog
in the neighborhood or have friends over in the backyard.
Here are a few of the most common reasons your dog might
be acting aggressive, and what you can do about it.

It’s important to understand that dog’s are often aggressive
out of instinct. Dogs are pack animals, and in a pack
aggression is necessary for survival. So even though your
dog lives in luxury and has his food brought to him in
a bowl, he still has that instinct.

Dogs are most often aggressive when they are defending their
territory. This is why dogs bark when strangers come to
your home, especially delivery personnel with their noisy
trucks. Your dog is probably thinking, “I’ve been barking
at this huge animal for months and he’s still coming back!”

Typically once a dog is neutered or spayed, this kind of
aggression subsides. Don’t expect an instant fix, though.
It can take months after the surgery for the dog’s temper
to settle down.

Another common reason why dogs are aggressive is that they
are afraid. People often react to fear with aggression,
so it’s not hard to understand that your dog might do the
same. He’s thinks he’s in trouble, and so he’s putting up
his best “angry face” to try and convince the object of his
fear that he’s dangerous, too!

The best way to prevent this kind of aggression is to either
remove the dog from the scary situation, or, if that’s not
possible, slowly train your dog to get used to whatever he
is afraid of. If it’s a person, slowly introduce the dog
to the person. Let them be around the dog a little more
each time. Eventually he will get used to their presence
and lose his fear.

One often overlooked reason why a dog might be aggressive
is that he’s in pain. If a dog used to be very mild
tempered, but in his old age is aggressive, he might have
arthritis. People are often touchy and snap at others
when they are sick or in pain as well, so I’m sure you
can understand your dogs behavior.

If the other situations do not apply, it’s wise to have
your dog get a physical checkup at his vet’s office, to
make sure that there’s not something physically wrong.

A few general tips to keep in mind to stay off your dog’s
aggression are:

Do not play fight.

Play fighting causes a dog to be even more aggressive,
teaching them to bite and attack.

Give time-outs (5 to 10 minutes).

It works with children, and it can work with dogs, too!
When your dog is acting up, put him in a room by himself
for 5 to 10 minutes. Soon he’ll start to associate the
time out with the aggression and calm down.

Get your puppy used to people early.

If your pet is still in the puppy stage, make sure he
interacts with strangers on a regular basis. Otherwise
he will not know how to behave around people he does not
know and may become aggressive out of fear.

Yes, there are many reasons why a dog may exhibit strong
aggression, but all of those reasons have cures. Spending
some time to figure out why your dog is aggressive and
applying the above solutions should help calm your dogs
nerves, so to speak.

You can learn to train even the most aggressive dog with Jonathan’s free freedogtraining.net/ dog training lessons.

Crate training is one of the most effective ways of housebreaking your puppy or dog. Why? Because your dog will naturally resist soiling the area where he eats and sleeps. When you place your dog in the crate and he becomes accustomed to it, he will quickly grow to view the crate as his den. His natural instinct will be to keep the den clean.

However, crate training has other benefits as well. It can reduce your dog’s separation anxiety when you’re away. It can prevent destructive behavior and keep him out of dangerous household items when you can’t keep a close eye on him while you’re home. And the crate itself can serve as an indoor dog house that you can move throughout the house as needed.

Okay, some important crate training ground rules …

1. A crate should never be used for the purpose of punishment.

2. Never force your dog into the crate.

3. The use of a crate begins with its introduction. If possible, you’ll want to have a week or so when your dog can become familiar with the crate. During this period, feed him in the crate with the door open. You’ll want to have a bed inside the crate, and chew toys to make the environment as attractive as possible. If your dog enters the crate on his own, praise him and pet him, then close the door. The first few times may result in some whining, however this will pass. Your dog will settle down. Give him time.

4. When possible, keep the crate near you when you’re home.

5. Never leave your dog in the crate for long periods of time. How long is too long? A puppy will need to be given the opportunity to stretch and do his business every 45 minutes or so. An adult dog, once he’s accustomed to the crate, can be kept crated for as long as 4 hours, but no longer. The exception to this rule is that most dogs can sleep in a crate overnight without any difficulty.

6. When crate training, you’ll want to make sure your dog has plenty of opportunities to do his business outside. If you’re away from the house for a time, you’ll need to let him out of the crate immediately upon returning. In the morning, when you first get up, you’ll need to let him out to do his business. Give him every opportunity to do his business and the training process will go much faster.

7. When your dog does use the designated outside area, always be lavish with your praise.

8. When there’s a mishap during the crate training process (for instance, your dog soils his crate or doesn’t make it to the designated area), do not scold or punish him. Accidents are the result of not providing him with enough opportunity to do his business. Simply keep to the basics, and make sure in the future he has plenty of bathroom breaks throughout the day.

9. Want to make the process go even easier? Keep a daily diary of when your dog eats and when he does his business. Use the diary to note how often you’re providing him the opportunity to eliminate and how often he takes advantage of the opportunity. You’ll quickly be able to identify a regular routine which can benefit both of you in the house training process.

Once your dog has been crate trained, you’ll be able to use the crate throughout his life, providing him with a warm, pleasant, den-like environment that will keep him feeling secure.

responsibledogtraining.com Crate training is only one challenge you’re going to meet as a dog owner. If you want to be prepared for all your dog’s challenges (such as biting, barking, tugging on the leash, and others), check out these top three dog training courses: responsibledogtraining.com/dog-training-courses-reviewed.html Dog Training

By day I am an animal shelter adoption associate.

By night I am Ahab, a three-legged scrawny cat. I am of another generation. Maybe several generations. It is said that cats have nine lives and I am living proof of this fact. I don’t know how many lives I’ve had because cats, contrary to popular opinion, cannot count. I may have had only two. It could be eight. Nine? Who knows? I don’t care.

I am a DSH, which stands for your standard domestic short hair, as opposed to one of the many more elegant breeds mentioned in specialty books on cats. I am a scraggly orange tiger and proud of it.

My lives have been filled with activity. I have been known to fish in the Adriatic Sea, in small aquariums, and round fishbowls with equal success. I can climb refrigerators, book cases, the walls surrounding the emperor’s palace, and lace curtains. Using only my front claws and my tail, I can catch and destroy nurf balls and chair legs. And, most important, I can read and write and surf the web. Perhaps you’ve heard about my friend Archy, the cockroach. Back in the Twenties he wrote on an old typewriter, jumping from key to key. He couldn’t use upper case because he could only hit one key at a time, so his musings lacked capitals and punctuation. Nevertheless, his boss, Don Marquis, stole everything Archy wrote and published his musings in books, raking in the monetary rewards of Archy’s hard work. Isn’t that just the way of people? They force us pets to learn tricks, show us off by making us perform in front of audiences, and then take all the credit. Fortunately, most cats have learned early-on to refuse to perform, leaving that sad function to the more gullible dog species.

But I digress.
Archy, the cockroach had a best friend named Mehitabel, a free spirited ally cat who almost ate him on their first encounter. They managed to become fast friends and Archy often wrote of her activities and achievements. Mehitabel wanted to be a dancer but she was handicapped by one big problem: litters. I quote:

archy she said to me

yesterday

the life of a female

artist is continually

hampered what

have i done to deserve

all these kittens

(archy and mehitabel, by Don Marquis, Doubleday, 1927)

Mehitabel continued to exclaim that her only prayer was to be allowed to give her best to her art but just as she felt she was succeeding in her life work, along came another batch of kittens.

Archy should have told her, anonymously, of course, how to solve this continuing catastrophe.

mehitabel get spayed he should have written.

Wise words, to be sure.

My friend ZeeZee is a perfect example. She is an exotic lilac point Siamese with beautiful blue eyes, a sensuous personality and a howl that can crack cement. She knows how beautiful is she and will tell you in no uncertain terms. “I am perfect,” she purrs. She is spayed. She is perfect. I mean, can you even imagine her going into heat and making that yowl of hers for three to fifteen days up to three times a year? Please, my ears!
I, on the other hand, am a manly man cat. I have fought prey larger than myself, sprayed in room corners, hurled balls of yarn across tables, and dragged whole hams off kitchen counters. I have been a stray, owned, lost, strayed again, arrested, adopted, and, somewhere along the way, altered. Yes indeed, I am a neutered male, and I am proud of that feat, too. Who among us wouldn’t be?
We, who are spayed and neutered, are unique and healthier, for the most part, than our intact brothers and sisters. We can live our lives in elegance without worry of combat with rivals or caring for multiple little mouths to feed. Think about it.
Now I know there are humans out there who think having a litter around is cute. They can make lots of money selling the puppies and kitties, and they can show their children the birth process. Not.
First of all, keeping a litter costs lots of money. The little ones need to stay with their mom for eight weeks in order to learn all the important cat and dog things that mom can teach. Soon the people will have to feed those babies and they eat plenty. The babes also need to see the vet and get those first shots. That’s another cost, but a necessary one if the people are conscientious owners.
And then there’s showing the kids the birth process. What’s that all about? Come on, any new mom likes privacy in this moment of crisis in her life. She wants a warm, dark spot to do what needs to be done. She doesn’t want an audience. People hanging around, especially children make Mom extremely nervous. Sometimes the poor gal gets so confused she wants nothing to do with her new litter. Face it, this is not educational television here.
Personally I think some humans have some pretty strange ideas about pets. It is our duty to keep those people in line and teach them how to be good servants to us who are most worthy.
My advice for the day is to take the leap. Be spayed. Be neutered. Be hip.

I am a retired school librarian, a published author, and an adoption counselor at the local animal shelter. My book ‘Coco Twain Tells the Truth’ isn’t about animals but my work at the shelter is.

A cockatiel is one of the most popular birds today. They are extremely sociable, gentle, intelligent and not very demanding. This makes them wonderful pets even for beginners. Owning one of these birds is very rewarding and not very hard work.

Cockatiels are actually a species of parrot. They get their name from a Dutch word, “Kakatielje” that means little cockatoo. Cockatiels belong to the cockatoo family and originated from Australia. There are many color varieties of cockatiels, including yellow, gray and white. With the proper nutrition, cockatiels will live for 15 to 20 years.

Cockatiels are extremely sociable birds. By nature, they are very gentle, docile and only moderately active. These birds need to be played with, talked to and touched. They will try to get your attention by doing tricks or singing. They are generally very happy cheerful birds. They are also very affectionate and will often groom your hair. Because of their affectionate nature, they especially love to be stroked and cuddled. They will even put their heads down for you to stroke them! Cockatiels can be taught to talk and whistle tunes. However, their speech is not as clear as the larger parrots. Males are usually more vocal than the females.

Even though cockatiels are from the parrot family, they are much smaller, quieter, cleaner and bite less than most other parrots. This makes them great family pets. When choosing a pet, make sure that it is hand-fed so that it will be tame and used to people. Also, you will need to decide whether you want a male or female. Females are more nervous than males, but also more friendly and affectionate. Males are a little more aggressive but will talk and sing more than females. Cockatiels are not an expensive bird.

Cockatiels need a cage at least 18″ X 18″ X 18″. If they are going to be in the cage a lot then you should get a cage at least 36″ X 18″ X 24″. This will give flying room that he will need for exercise. Try not to keep the cage in a draughty area. You should try to let your bird out of the cage as much as possible. There are even bird diapers now to prevent messes in your house! Because of their intelligence, cockatiels need lots of mental stimulation. You should change the toys in their cage every few weeks so that they won’t get bored. Cockatiels do chew on things, so make sure the toys you get are safe.

In order to keep your pet healthy, it is imperative that you keep them on a good diet. Do not put your bird on an all seed diet. Try and get a pellet-based diet. If you do not get a pellet based diet, you will need to prepare fresh fruits and vegetables every day. Foods that are good for them include fruits, vegetables, cereals, bread and cheese. You can give these as treats if you have your bird on a pellet diet. Also, cockatiels need between 10 and 12 hours of sleep every night or they will become ill.

Cockatiels make great companions. If you only have one, it will form an extremely strong bond with you because it will think you are its mate. Cockatiels love attention and are very gentle and affectionate. They are excellent pets.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to birds.free-resource-guide.com/ Birds

With so many different breeds which come in different shapes and sizes, how can you tell whether one food is suitable for the next? The fact is that all breeds of dog have different nutritional needs and it is your job as an owner to do your research and see just what your dog needs.

Diets for Different Dogs

Whilst years ago people used dogs to hunt for their food, these days most people work their dogs for other reasons. We do not need to survive anymore by hunting our food and so the dogs do not necessarily have to work as hard as they used to do. However there is still a need for working and herding dogs to have a higher energy food which will keep them going all day. If you do have a working dog then you will need to ensure that they get the recommended increase in water, B-complex vitamins and minerals.

The only difference between working dogs and non working dogs with the diet should be the energy levels in the food. Nutrients wise all dogs require the same and if you give a working dog more food to give them more energy, it is possible that you could overdose them on nutrients. This means that they will not get the necessary benefits required from the food, and it is better to stick with especially designed working dog food so that they do get the right level of nutrients and energy needed.

If you do not use a specialized working dog food then it is possible that your dog will lose quite a lot of weight. This is because physically working dogs cannot really eat more food and that means that they will not be getting the energy that they need and they will lose weight and become weaker and unable to work eventually. In some cases the dog could even die from literally working to the death, so it is a serious situation.

If you own a herding dog then luckily they tend to use the least amount of energy of all working dogs. They only need to work for short periods of time and the only times that they need to work excessively are when they are trying to round up stray animals.

Overall the type of food which you feed your dog will depend entirely upon what they are used for. Do try and do a little research before you purchase a dog so that you know what type of food and how much food you should be feeding your working dog.

Final tip: No matter what breed your dog is, there are major health benefits to feeding him with an ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/elevated-dog-feeders elevated feeding station instead of a standard ohmydogsupplies.com/dog-supplies/dog-bowls dog bowl. Eating while bent over can increase air ingestion, which can cause digestive problems. It can also create poor spinal alignment and cause pain to dogs suffering from joint ailments.

For more information by Kelly Marshall, see this interesting article on ezinearticles.com/?Top-5-Tips-For-Showing-Your-Dog&id=488591 tips for showing your dog.

From the first day of life on a leash, most dogs learn that by pulling on it, they get to where they want faster. Its the behavior that so many dog owners struggle with. Its a simple solution - just stop walking. Although, somehow your dog doesn’t learn its just that simple. Or maybe we aren’t teaching it effectively enough. Or say, you have taught your dog that, except when they want to sniff the fire hydrant, or meet your neighbors dog, or chase a squirrel.

I have decided as an owner, that the only way to walk my dogs is by using either a gentle leader or a gentle leader easy walk harness. I still enforce the rules - the dog pulls, I stop. The dog pays attention and walks with me, I move forward and often give treats and praise for doing so.

The reason I use and recommend these two items is simple, prevention and safety. If the dog does pull, they don’t continue to go forward, they are instead turned around and facing me again. It helps me stay consistent.

The Gentle Leader is a great tool. The fit is a bit tricky and most dogs fight it when they get it on - EW something is on my FACE! Ignore it. If you just keep going, stay happy and reinforce them not pawing at it, it will go away. Some have argued that the Gentle Leader can cause damage to their head / back. I think this is only true if the dog is running and you snap the leash. Do not use the tool this way. I prefer a shorter leash and never yank or pull the leash. Instead, just stop, so their head is guided, not forced back around.

The tool I recommend and use is the Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness. Its an easy fit, the dog doesn’t mind it, and it works really well. There is no issue of the dog escaping, and no damage since you are controling the body.

Amy Dunphy, CPDT
Owner of dogtrainersearch.com The Dog Trainer Search
Find dog training information, advice, tools and supplies

I would like to share my professional opinion on the benefits of training. Through training you will build a strong lifelong bond between you and your dog. A well-behaved dog is more likely to become an active member of your family. Well-socialized, trained dogs make it easy for you to take them on vacations, to parks, and on visits to family members’ homes without it being stressful for either of you. Training requires consistency, motivation and timing. The main thing most people do not realize is that the training is for the owner as well as the dog. Dogs cannot think like we do, but we can surely think like them; we just need to learn how. Dogs are pack animals, and in their pack there is always a leader, the Alpha. We just need to understand how to become an alpha. Communication is the key. The alpha dictates everything to the pack; she/ he will teach boundaries as well as what is acceptable and what is not. If we train like we are the alpha then it is instinctual for the dog to understand that we are in charge.

Socialization

Builds your dog’s temperament, and an even-tempered dog is less likely to be aggressive or fearful and will have fewer behavioral problems. Dogs that have been exposed to many different people, places and objects are much easier to train as well. If dogs are not exposed to different places, people, terrains and objects they can build up a fear of anything new or of any change in their routine. Always make sure your dog is fully immunized before you start any socialization. Check with your veterinarian first before any socialization occurs. People do not realize that dogs must be exposed to as simple a thing as sand, for example. I had a client call me while on her vacation; she was stunned that the dog she thought was well-socialized would not get on the beach. Her dog was scared of the sensation of her feet sinking into the sand. Now she remembered I had told her to take her puppy to sand early on, so there would not be an avoidance of it later in the dog’s life. She found out the hard way that socialization has many forms, shapes and textures. Another example involved a lady that moved into a new home where there were 4 stair wells. One was outside off a deck and you could see through to the other side, a very scary situation for some dogs. Now the dog is 2 ½ years old and does not know how to go up or down stairs. The importance of socialization is tremendous. The main thing we all want is a well- mannered, well-behaved dog, and this can be accomplished through Socialization and Training.

Exercise

Dogs build up a level of stress and energy everyday which can determine how they interact with you, your kids and other dogs. Exercise releases stress and energy. Your dog needs exercise every day for this release. A bored dog can become a “bad dog”, whereas an exercised dog leads to a calm, well- behaved dog. Remember, an exhausted dog does nothing wrong! One form of exercise is getting your dog interested in a ball or Frisbee. Find places (if you do not have a fenced back yard) to allow your dog to run. Long walks are helpful, but running releases the most amount of energy and stress. Allow your dog to have “dog time” where he/she can just be a dog, and run, jump, play, chew and dig. Most of a dog’s natural behaviors are what we want a dog not to do; seems a little unfair, don’t you think? Dogs naturally greet one another by jumping, mouthing, and smelling. Within their pack the greeting is a big deal. There is competition for attention, and that naturally raises the dog’s energy level. You can teach a dog another way to greet you besides jumping, through training and consistency. Dogs are social animals and want to be with their “pack”- you are their pack. Have fun! Exercise, Socialize and Train your dog and the rest is simple!

Susie Aga,

Green Tree Pythons are the dream of many reptile hobbyists. They are one of the most stunning species of snake known to the pet trade; a real gem of the rainforest. Green Tree Pythons are arboreal (tree dwelling) and nocturnal (active at night), making this species incredibly difficult to find in the wild and highly valuable.

As the name suggests, this species is predominantly green in colour, although some individuals may be blue or yellow with flecks of white, black and yellow. Babies are born yellow or red with white and black flecks. This species if native to New Guinea and it’s surrounding islands, reaching as far south as the Northern Tip of Australia in the Cape York Peninsula. As the reptile industry has progressed, keeping this snake has become easier and easier. The old tales regarding the extreme difficulties keeping this snake alive have been thrown out the window, and with enough time, effort and money spent, this species is easy and incredibly exciting to keep. In this care article I will explain exactly how this is possible.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the python’s life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Green Tree Python, a vivarium 90cm Length x 60cm Width x 60cm Height is ample. Many keepers opt for 60cm cubed vivarium or one which is vertically shaped rather than horizontal. Providing they have a minimum of 60cm cubed, I do not feel it is too important which shape is provided. Green Tree Pythons are fairly timid and need to feel secure at all times. Too large an enclosure may scare the snake, yet an enclosure too small will not allow good exercise nor will it be easy to obtain an appropriate temperature and humidity gradient. Juveniles should be housed in smaller enclosures; 30cm cubed is a good size. As they grow, so should their enclosure and if you feel your python will adapt and prefer a larger vivarium, I urge you to consider giving it that opportunity.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can too be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 ‘SSSHHH’ factors:

1) Safety – Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure – Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size – Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating – Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature enough?
5) Humidity – Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions?
6) Hygienic – Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

Green Tree Pythons have become such a prized possession for reptile hobbyists that specialist brand vivarium designs have been built specifically for them. These are usually plastic or fiberglass, but melamine and glass are also common. Providing the following steps above are taken into consideration, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Decor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake, second making the vivarium more aesthetically pleasing. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Green Tree Python is also capable of doing this. When positioning wood or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for a large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. Green Tree Pythons do not typically hide under or in objects like most snakes do; instead, they may choose to sit on a branch situated amongst foliage or with the sides of the enclosure around them. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. For Green Tree Pythons, I do not recommend a particular number of hides, although it is important to provide several ‘sitting’ spots around the vivarium.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Substrate

As Green Tree Pythons are arboreal, I do not feel much of an importance on how the snake should react to a substrate. Rather, how the substrate reacts with the enclosure is more important. Newspaper is cheap, easily disposable, soaks in moisture and will also dry out easily. This is for me the easiest and best substrate for Green Tree Pythons. Aspen, bark chips and other wood chips can also be used, but be sure that no mould is allowed to grow and that regular cleaning takes place.

Heating

Green Tree Pythons require a very slight thermal gradient within the vivarium, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-90ºF while the cool end should be approximately 75-78ºF. The ambient air temperature should be around 84-86ºF. During the night, a slight decrease in temperature by a couple of degrees is acceptable but not necessary.

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a Green Tree Python enclosure is to use a power plate. This is a small thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no way a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the eye as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only brand available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A power plate should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weight out to be as good as a power plate.

Lighting

Green Tree Pythons are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to any snake’s enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12” up to 48” and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

During night time hours, an infra-red bulb will make a good addition to a Green Tree Python’s enclosure. If a spot bulb is used, be sure the vivarium does not become too hot. It is recommended that spot bulbs are also encased in a mesh cage to prevent the snake from burning itself. Be sure to also ensure that if using a red bulb at night, that the appropriate temperature change is given to the heating device which is used during the day.

Humidity & Water

This is one of the most important parts to keeping this species, and one which many are confused about. When keeping any snake, I always bare in mind and research the native country to which that snake comes from, and then the habitat in which it decides to live. With this in mind, it is possible to recreate the snake’s environment and successfully enjoy keeping and perhaps breeding it.

Green Tree Pythons are a rainforest dwelling species native to the most Northern tip of Australia and New Guinea. These places have high humidity levels all year round, although it obviously fluctuates greatly from day to night and month to month. It is therefore not important to have exact humidity levels all the time. Rather; it is more important to fluctuate the humidity level and offer dry patches as well as high humidity patches.

Humidity levels vary depending on the temperature of the cage and the ventilation offered. Enclosures that keep high humidity levels all the time are more damaging to a Green Tree Python than enclosures which dry out too quick. It is not important to give a level of humidity, although I suggest that an optimum level of high humidity is reached every day or two, and then allowed to slowly dry out. Misting the cage and substrate is a perfect way of achieving this. Be sure that the cage itself is not too wet; humidity is not dependant on how wet your enclosure is, but how much water vapour is held in the air. If stagnant water is sitting at the bottom of your vivarium, this may cause more harm than good.

Many Green Tree Pythons are not observed drinking from a bowl; instead they are seen drinking from water droplets when misting the cage or from water dripping systems. Most individuals will happily drink from a bowl which is regularly changed, although I suggest with emaciated individuals not observed taking on water, that a drip system is put in place.

Feeding

Juvenile Green Tree Pythons are capable of feeding on pinky mice. As they grow, so should their food. I recommend using a food item no larger than the girth of the snake. The girth is the diameter of the widest part of the snake, which should be the middle part of the body. Hatchling Green Tree Pythons should be fed once a week on one or two appropriately sized food items. As they grow, their food should too increase in size, but not in quantity. As an adult, their food intake can slow down to once every two or three weeks, and a larger rat or mouse should be offered. Green Tree Pythons have a very slow metabolism and obese individuals are regularly seen in captivity. Some individuals roam more than others and some are handled more than others, so feeding should depend on each snake and not the species as a whole. It is perfectly acceptable, particularly for male Green Tree Pythons to eat once every six weeks or so, providing of course they do not lose weight.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
petclubuk.com petclubuk.com

Selecting a house cow is usually a pretty personal preference. Some people want a lot of milk, so they would be looking at something like a Friesian. They give quite a lot, often more watery than creamy. Although having said that individual cows give different types of milk Me, I always liked a Jersey. Only the one bucket of milk with a very good cream content. Enough to make my own butter, have some buttermilk to use for cooking and good rich milk for the children to drink. Also had enough cream to make pure cream icecream. Kept the neighbours in milk as well. Any left over went to the pig. A housecow is a very good investment. She will give you all the milk, butter, cream you want plus she can raise a calf for meat at the same time.

Regardless of what cow you are going to buy, there are certain attributes that are the best “buys”. A good straight back, the saying is a square looking cow. However, you need to think of a rectangle more than a square with four feet. The udder is very important. After all, this is what you are buying. Preferably square (that word again) meaning it hangs evenly. Four teats, I know you are saying like right they all have four teats. Not so! Some have extra teats on the udder, not that they work, but they do get in the way sometimes of milking.

The next thing to consider is who is going to be doing the milking. If it is a man, then he will normally prefer a cow with good size teats as most men have larger hands. That means a bigger cow usually than a jersey as they usually have little teats. I have small hands, so the jersey suits me down to the ground whereas the others I have trouble getting my hands around. We had an AIS (Australian Illawarra Shorthorn) that we named Dolly after the singer. She was generously endowed and had teats like toilet rolls. She could feed her own calf and two others. Now that was a lot of milk!

Now the way not to do things!

When we first started out, I enlisted the aid of an old cocky (farmer). He was a Friesan man through and through and couldn’t understand why I wanted to buy “that jersey”. She was quiet and would just stand there to be milked. This was true, just not in a shed. Put a bucket of dairymeal in front of her and you could milk her anywhere in a paddock. Not great on rainy days! He wanted us to put the calf up for auction at the end of the sale. I asked how old the calf was and he said about a day. My mother’s instinct came to the fore. After giving birth, she was to lose her calf? No fear! We took cow and calf. This was a blessing because if you didn’t want to milk you could leave her with her calf and you didn’t have to worry. Good if you wanted to go away for a couple of days.

However, it was our first cow and the only ones I had seen were at the Royal Show in Sydney. They wore halters and were led around. So I gave Vic a headcollar and told him to put it on. He came back saying he didn’t think she wanted it on as she had tossed her head and him at least three times. She never wore a headstall.

Okay, lets get serious again!

Now as she had only just calved we need to leave her so that the sting went out of the milk. In our area they called this beestings. This can take about 5-7 days.

After that you can start milking your cow. Some come broken in to a head bale, some are not. All our cows used to just stand there munching their dairymeal. We didn’t leg rope them either. Some people tie the leg on the side you are milking back. We have had various cows and all of them have their own little habits. Quite a few would only milk on one side. After being threatened with a kick, I would try the other side to find that suited the cow. One we tied around the neck to start her, as she wasn’t broken in to milk. We didn’t have a bale, so we just tied her up and started milking. She messed up sometimes and put her foot in the bucket of milk but after awhile, she would keep it back. I always felt that it was better to lose a few buckets of milk than leg rope her. Interestingly enough, when we were doing some riding camps, a little lass offered to milk her for me. She was an experienced milker as they had their own cow. I said okay. Next she came back to say that Delilah (we called her that because she was so beautiful) kept putting her back leg up and moving her hands away from the udder. It wasn’t me, so no one else was going to get her milk!

They are all characters and like all animals each an individual with certain preferences.

Happy milking!

“ABOUT THE AUTHORS”: Vic & Rose Rushton are recognised as leading authorities on organic farming. Their web site rushton-enterprises.com rushton-enterprises.com provides a wealth of informative articles and resources on organic farming