Pets Smile Plus

If you are reading this, you probably are someone who keeps or at least cares about animals. You are in the majority. Most people have room for animals, if not in their homes, then at least in their hearts. But there are those who do not share our appreciation and respect for animals. Some of them you need to be wary of. A demented few actually are predators who want nothing more than to silence the neighbor’s barking dog or terminate the roaming cat.

They are secretly brutal people who have no compunction for hurting innocent creatures. They are not concerned about right and wrong. They are self-centered, narcissistic individuals who want only to have things their own way. Their comfort and happiness trumps any other consideration.

Fortunately there are not a lot of these folks, but there are enough sprinkled around our communities so that pet owners need to be on their guard. As the author of several pet loss books, I receive a steady stream of e-mail and letters that tell horrific stories of abuse and brutality toward animals.

My own mother lost her outside cat to a neighbor who was later arrested after authorities discovered dozens of dead cats buried in his backyard. Strangely, he was a friendly sort who got along well with everyone. No one ever suspected that he was capable of such brutality. . The scariest thing is that he is not unique. There are many who set out poison, trap and even shoot unprotected animals.

I am not suggesting we give a free pass to those who refuse to leash or fence their pets. Certainly this is a responsibility that all need to assume. It is the law. But the purpose of those laws seems to have evolved. There was a time when leash and fencing laws were in place to keep one’s pets from intruding into the yards and lives of neighbors. These days it seems those same laws now work more to the benefit and safety of our animals rather than for the neighbor

Allowing a dog or cat to roam around the neighborhood exposes them to dangers that having them on a leash or behind a fence would not. Responsible ownership does not just show respect for the law, but also shelters pets from potential dangers.

Now don’t set up a video camera to keep an eye on your neighbors. They are probably nice folks who haven’t a mean bone in their bodies. But do be aware that there is potential danger down the street. You can’t control what others do, but you can take away the opportunity for them to do it to you or your pets. Keep your pets leashed and behind fences.

The author is a retired Coast Guard Officer with over 32 years of service. He has a love for animals and those who keep them. He helps those grieving the loss of a pet to understand the Biblical evidence that proves they live on. His most popular book, “Cold Noses at the Pearly Gates” delivers hope and comfort to the reader in a very gentle, yet convincing way. Visit at coldnosesbook.com coldnosesbook.com for more information and tips.

Ask any dog owner and they’ll tell you there are six general commands to teach your new puppy. Those six are: Heel, Come, Sit, Stand, Stay, and Down. And with any dog, it doesn’t matter which one you choose to start your training.

Practice Time

The important thing to remember about practice time is to not be in a hurry and practice every day. Remember, you don’t set the pace for learning, you puppy does.

Your training sessions should last for only two to five minutes, that way you’re matching the attention span length of your Labradoodle. If you push them longer, they may stop paying attention to you.

As you work each session, make sure to every one with a near-perfect performance. This could be as simple as a one or two-second sit, or three little “heeling” steps next to you. When they do it successfully tell them how “perfect” it was. Really let them know how pleased you are they got it right.

When Not To Practice

Don’t start a training right after your Labradoodle puppy has eaten because they’ll be sleepy and the treats you use as rewards won’t be as enticing. However, you can practice at any time throughout the day, even if it’s a three-second “stay.” They will love the attention.

One thing many owners don’t realize is the motivation for them to do anything is rooted in their desire to please you. Verbal praise has a range from ecstatic (for the first few correct responses from a very young pup) to a calm “good dog” as they grow up and become better a performing the lessons

How About Treats?

Basically, treats run a close second to their desire to please you. As for treats, dog biscuits generally aren’t good training treats because they take your puppy too long to chew. A better treat are tiny bits of plain cheese.

Make sure not to overuse cheese when practicing. As each word command is learned, gradually cut back on the treats and substitute “good dog.”

What Should I Say?

What you say and how you say it determines how quickly dogs learn. All conversation is perceived as meaningless sound.

To see how quickly they can learn their name, try this exercise: In the middle of conversation with a friend, say your dogs name emphatically and watch them take notice. When using the one-word training commands, remember that lesson.

Their name gives you their attention; one word tells them what to do. It is “Rover, SIT” - loud and clear. Don’t go this route, “Rover, Sit. Sit. Sit. “Rover, you’re not listening - I said Sit. SIT, Rover! ” That’s nagging and Rover will tune you out just like children will.

Your Labradoodle puppy isn’t being disobedient or stubborn. They’re just confused, so avoid sounding like a drill sergeant! Smile, speak clearly and let the dog do the barking!

You can learn more about these unique dogs and their hypoallergenic properties - and why the first year is so important here: ediemackenzie.com/LdoodPuppy.htm Your Labradoodle Puppy’s First Year Made Easy

As humans, we all know there is no such thing as a free lunch. In fact, nothing in life is free. But have you ever tried to tell your dog that? Chances are, your dog is able to get what he wants, when he wants it, and he knows it. Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) is part dog training and part behavior modification.

Dogs are pack animals. Every animal in the pack has a place in the hierarchy. At the top, of course, is the leader of the pack, or the alpha. This should be you, the human. But often, you are not. When your dog whines at you when it is supper time, do you go and feed your dog? When your dog jumps up on you for attention, do you bend down and pet your dog? If you do either of these, your dog is training you. When the dog learns that certain actions (crying or jumping) lead to certain behaviors (feeding or attention) your dog is being put in control. In the pack hierarchy, your dog is now above you.

Fortunately, your dog can unlearn this and you can reassert your dominance. It involves no yelling, no scolding, and no force but it does require you to rethink how you do things and change those habits that are reinforcing your dog’s superiority.

With Nothing in Life is Free, your dog has to work to gain the things (such as food or attention) that he wants. When you feed your dog, have him sit before putting down his food bowl. When he walks away, remove the feeding bowl until the next feeding time. Do not free feed your dogs, but instead feed them twice a day. Having them sit before meal times tells them that you—not they—control the food.

If your dog jumps on you for attention, ignore your dog. Petting her or yelling at her rewards her for jumping by giving her the attention she is looking for. Instead, pet her when she is being good and not asking for your attention.

Make a list of the ways your dog takes control of a situation and think of ways to change your behavior so that you are always in charge. It might get worse before it will get better, but eventually your dog will learn to respect you and you will both be happier for it.

Lynn loves all dogs, especially well-behaved ones. To learn more about dog training, visit her site at squidoo.com/positivedogtraining squidoo.com/positivedogtraining

Is your cat acting strangely? Well it might be pregnant! It is important to recognize when a cat is pregnant so that you can provide sufficient care for your cat. Here are some simple steps that you can do to assure that your female pet is pregnant.

1. Usually when pregnant, your cats nipples will begin to grow and in the same time, become soft and pink.

2. Gently run your hand across your cats abdominal area to see if you feel any sorts of swelling or small lumps

3. When a cat becomes pregnant, her demeanor may change. Most of the time, they becoming more loving and affectionate compared to when they are not pregnant.

4. Take notice of a significant weight gain in your cat. To distinguish pregnant from fat, a pregnant cat will only be fatter around the abdominal area, but a fat cat is fat all over including the neck, legs, etc.

5. Sometimes a pregnant cat may experience morning sickness, similar to female humans when they are pregnant.

6. Your pregnant cat will start eating a lot more and demanding a lot more food. But it is still important to feed it with the correct kinds of food

So you find out that your cat is really pregnant! Don’t panic because now the real work begins. If you are as lost as any other cat lover out there, help is on your way.

Discover the secrets that veterinarians and cat breeders use, to keep your pregnant cat safe and healthy AND raise happy, healthy kittens which would be discussed in part II

Check out squidoo.com/pregnantcat/ squidoo.com/pregnantcat/ for part II on Taking care of our pregnant cat.

You can train your cat to use the toilet. By doing this it will save you time and money. There will be little or no mess. Once the cat has been trained to go into the toilet, you will be able to eliminate the cat litter and the smell associated with cats. You will need a few items to get you started. Aluminum foil, a tray, and cat litter preferably flushable kitty litter.

You will not have to clean the litter box anymore and will save money on not having to buy the litter any more. You need to decide which toilet in the house you will use. In addition, what toilet in the house the cat will use. If you have two toilets it maybe easier to train than if, you only have one toilet in the house.

You will have to use an aluminum tray to put on the toilet. With two toilets in the house, you can leave the tray right in the toilet and not have to remove it when you need to use the toilet in the house. If you have only one toilet, it is not that convenient to share with your cat. You will just have to remove the tray whenever you want to use the toilet. Be sure to leave the seat down and lid up for the training period.

Leave a note on the toilet for guests so that your cat does not make a mess on the floor if the lid is down. Replace the cats litter box with an aluminum-cooking tray. The aluminum tray should be the right size to fit in the toilet. The seat lid should be able to close so that the seat lid holds the tray in place. Remember do not close the lid. The results may be less than attractive. Start moving the tray closer and closer to the toilet that the cat will be using. Be sure not to move it when the cat does not know it is there.

Once the litter tray is in the bathroom put a something about an inch thick under the tray. Magazines are a very bad choice for this. The magazines are slick and the litter box may fall. Continue to raise the litter box about an inch every day until the litter box is the same level as the toilet. The cat will be able to just step into the litter box at first. As you raise the litter box, the cat will have to jump into the box. You may want to secure the box so it does not move when the cat jumps into the litter box.

Let the cat know its there by scraping its claws in the tray. If there is, no litter in the tray the cat will be confused and will not understand what is going on. After the tray is in the toilet, you can use cat litter, which is flushable. If you use flushable kitty litter, you will have little or no mess to clean up.

Continue to leave the tray there for about 3 weeks. During this time reduce the litter in the tray and make a 1″ diameter hole in the tray. Every week, make the hole 1/2″ bigger. If the cat messes on the floor then the cat is trying to let you know that you are moving to fast. If your cat is heavy, try using two trays to hold its weight.

You may want to wait to train your cat until it is at least 6 months old. Cats younger than that cannot balance well and may end up being a big problem. Do not get discouraged as the process could take up to two to three months. The cat will start with two paws on the tray. As the hole you put into the tray gets bigger (by 1/2″ per weak) it will move a third leg to the toilet seat. Finally, the cat will have all four legs on the seat. Some cats cannot grip the seat very well. If the cat is the only one to use that toilet, you might put some kind of tape it can grip to on the seat lid.

I would love to share my secrets with you and my new special articles on cat training do just that! Everything you need to know to train your cat is included in these special reports: See our section on Cat Breads. All reports are available from ebooks-marketplace.com/cats/index.html ebooks-marketplace.com/cats/index.html

When you first obtain your puppy you will notice
that he has an instinct to bite and chew on most
everything. This is only natural. Here is where
you come in. You will have to set guidelines on
what is acceptable to chew and gnaw upon and what
is not. You will have to be firm here. Puppies
milk teeth are very sharp and the larger breeds
when they grow up can have a bone crushing bite
and can cause serious injury to individuals.

You will find that even a docile, calm dog can get
excited when rough housing and playing. If you
will let him chew and mouth you with his teeth you
will find that this can advance to a painful bite
in moments. If you puppy nips you then you will
have to tell him “NO!” If he continues, repeat the
command and use force to make him quit by holding
him by the collar.

Do not do anything that will distract him that
will disassociate his biting with the “NO”
command. If you hold his mouth shut you will
frustrate him and he will lose the connection
between the nipping and your command while trying
to get free from you grasp. If he continues you
are better off by grasping him by the collar and
shaking him. After that if he dosn’t quit you can
put him in his crate and give him a time out.

This is a very effective form of punishment. They
will not end up hating their crate. Don’t you
remember when you were a kid and were sent to your
room. I’m sure you didn’t end up hating your room.
If your dog understands the connection between his
misbehaving and your punishment he will accept his
discipline. Be sure that he understands why he is
being punished so he will know how to avoid your
discipline for his misdemeanor in the future.

Make sure you are clear in what you are
admonishing him for. He must understand that you
have disciplined him three times and that he
continued his mischief and now you will quit your
play time with him. Correct your puppy fairly and
he will continue to love and respect you. Healthy
and well loved puppies will not hate you for
taking your leadership role to teach and train
them.

In your training you will not be using his crate
as a den or a bedroom. You will be using it as a
method of correction and as a method of prevention
in your dog problems training. The crate will be
his house or domain within your house. Using his
crate as a punishment for him will teach him that
he can not behave in certain ways in your house.
On the other hand his crate is his house and you
will leave him alone when he is in his house. This
will be his domain when he wants peace and rest
and to get away from everyone.

You will want to keep his door open on his crate
and keep his house accessible for him. Keep it
clean and washed out and make sure that their is
no hair accumulation in the crate. When you clean
up your house make sure that you put his toys back
in his crate. This will help him understand and
make the connection that this is your house and
that he has his house. This will give him a
positive message about having his own house and
will make him feel special.

Jason runs a website on different processes
and procedures to train your dog or puppy. You
will find an array of information and tips at his
site at puppyanddogtraining.com/ puppyanddogtraining.com/

What? A “Pet trust”? Pets as our “children”? We are supposed to consider including our pet animals - dogs, cats, birds, etc - as “family members” and “loved ones” who should be covered in our testamentary trust or will and our estate planning? Aren’t these just mere “animals”?

Well, not quite so any more these days!

Americans own a huge number of pets, including about 68 million dogs and 73 million cats, according to a 2000 estimate by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. What is even particularly fundamental, however, from the sociological standpoint and the transformation of the American society, is this: That for a great many Americans, and a growing number of them, their home pets are now considered a bona fide “member of the family,” and not just “animals” any more.

An October 1999 survey by the USA Today newspaper, for example, found that more than 66% of American pet owners said they consider their pets “a member of the family.” In a more recent survey by the American Animal Hospital Association, a whopping 84% of American pet owners were reported to think of their animal companions as being their kids.

In deed, a more telling indices of the dramatic evolution of the pet from mere ‘animals’ towards the highly exulted status of a ‘family member’ in the American society, is the general attitude of the pet owners towards their pets and simply the way they treat, regard and relate with their pets. For example, according to surveys, some 79% of pet owners allow their pets to sleep in their beds with them, while 3% of them even count pets in the number of IRS withholdings they claim for tax purposes. The evidence is simply astounding: 50% of American pet owners talk “baby talk” to their pets; 37% of them carry a picture of their pets in their wallets; 27% of them include their pets in their testamentary trusts or wills; while 8% buy health insurance for their pets. There’s more. Nowadays, the “custody fights” over pets among divorcing couples who own pets, are among the most hotly contested issues in divorce proceedings; pet owners now throw lavish wedding and birthday parties for dogs, cats, and other pet animals, more adults today have pets than children, and so on and on.

Summed up simply, just about all those kinds of special rights, privileges and actions that have traditionally been reserved for and directed towards protecting and caring for human children, are, today, now used to protect and care for pets, as well. In other words, gradually but surely, there is now in the American society a new and increasingly significant kind of “family members” and “children.” It’s called the NON-human or pet animal family members and children!

And that brings us to this major question: how has the American law evolved in response to this developing new sociological reality in the American society? In terms of providing our new-found pet animal “infant children” the essential legal rights, care and protections as would be fitting for our human “infant children”? Suffice it simply to say, that a new specialized area of law has developed in the American jurisprudence pertaining to this issue. One significant aspect of it is what is known as the “pet trust” law. In point of fact, the American pet owners have for centuries expressed concerns and interest in establishing an estate plan for their animals in the same manner as people plan for their spouses and children, but that general impulse had for so long been resisted by the State legislatures and the Courts based on one legal rationale or the other. However, beginning in the 1990s, under the guidelines established by the National Conference of Commissioners of Uniform State Laws, State legislatures (at least 40 of them as of 2006) and the courts have adopted laws which address precisely those concerns and now permit the creation of trusts specifically for the custody and care of designated pets and their offspring in times of the incapacity or death of their owner.

Basically, with a legally valid ‘pet trust,’ you (the pet owner) can make specific provisions as to the care of your pets in the event of your disability or death, and provide for a reliable caretaker and funding arrangement for the pet all of which will be legally enforceable by the courts. Thus, with the “pet trust,” a relatively recent estate planning tool applicable for pet animals, you can assure that in the event of any such emergency, your pets will not likely wind up in the shelter or pound somewhere awaiting euthanasia, but will be taken into a safe home and will be properly cared for by a responsible, caring caretaker.

Affordable self-help EstatePlanAndTrustforPets.com/index.html dog, cat, pet estate planning pet’s future EstatePlanAndTrustForPets.Com/id73.html pet trust and will

When the earth shakes, the wind blows or the home is filled with the smell of smoke, most people automatically shift into the self-preservation mode and scramble to preserve their lives and the lives of others in the family. Those who plan ahead and develop contingencies for such emergency situations generally fare better than those who do not. Professionals in the emergency disaster relief field promote emergency evacuation plans for people, because they work.

But what about an emergency plan for our pets? They are family members too. Shouldn’t our plans for emergency evacuation include them as well? Thousands of trusting, devoted pets are lost each year due to natural disasters such as hurricanes, floods and fires, simply because their people did not have an emergency plan that included them.

With proper planning, many losses and much heartache can be avoided. Having an emergency evacuation plan in place that includes the family pet does not require a lot of effort. It is a task that is very easy to accomplish. The following information and tips are provided to help you develop such a plan.

• Never leave your pet behind unless circumstances absolutely prevent you from taking them. For instance, if the house is crumbling beneath your feet during an earthquake and you can’t find the cat, you probably should get yourself and your family to safety first and then, if safe, return to find the cat later. The chances are that a cat or dog will manage to exit the house on their own accord in such a situation, because they don’t want to be there either.

In a situation where there is time to plan your evacuation however, such as an approaching fire-line or hurricane, pets should not be left behind. Their lives are as vulnerable to these threats as humans and they need to be protected. Even if they manage to survive, the chance of them running off and not being found is extremely high. If they are found, it will probably be animal control and in the aftermath of a natural disaster, efforts for reuniting pets with their people are not high on the agenda.

• Do not book your pet into a local kennel or temporary shelter unless local authorities determine the shelter will withstand the impending danger. If the facility is in the path of destruction, boarding your pet there will not remove the danger to them. You will probably find that local shelters and kennels will be closed and not accepting business anyway. Additionally, kennels in neighboring towns that are not in harm’s way will probably run out of vacancies very quickly.

The best idea is to check with your local shelter or chapter of the SPCA long before the need arises. They may already have all the information you need.

In the absence of having such information, it is suggested that you keep your pet(s) with you. Recently there has been a awakening in the motel/hotel industry to the importance of pets to potential customers and more and more establishments are making provisions for animals. It should be relatively easy to find a motel that will accept your pet for very little additional expense.

• Ensure that your pet’s vaccines are up to date and have that paperwork in a place where you can find it quickly if the need to evacuate arises. If your evacuation occurs during the time the disaster is taking place (i.e. the beginning of a hurricane, etc.) make sure your pet has a collar and that the required tags are attached. Without meaning any disrespect, it might be a good time to treat your pet like a piece of luggage by adding an information tag to the collar with your contact information and an alternate family member’s (outside the endangered zone) contact information. In the event you are separated from your pet, this could be the one factor that ensures you are reunited.

• Some organizations give advice for situations where you have no choice but to leave your pet(s) at home. Except in those where circumstances prevent you from locating your pet and you must leave immediately (i.e. flood waters rising, etc.) such advice does not resonate with this writer. As a member of the family, they have an expectation of being important too. They depend upon you and you can’t let them down.

Just a little effort today may save you a lot of heartache tomorrow. Take the time and draft a plan for pet evacuation.

The author is a retired Coast Guard Officer with over 32 years of service. He is also a Baptist Preacher and Bible Teacher. He helps those grieving the loss of a pet to understand the Biblical evidence that proves they live on. His most popular book, “Cold Noses at the Pearly Gates” delivers hope and comfort to the reader in a very gentle, yet convincing way. Visit at coldnosesbook.com coldnosesbook.com for more information and tips.

…well, I hate to say it but my dog is getting old and I hate to see that. He’s been loyal to me and yet, can not make it up the stairs by himself or into the car for that matter. It breaks my heart. Without knowing anything, I ran out to the store and bought some pet stairs, another chew toy, and of course got him a squeaker because he’s in so much pain (what a good dog).

The experience I got in the store was less than desireable. I really don’t know anything about what to buy for my friend with old age. I didn’t even put myself in his position as to what he needs, I was only worried about how many they had on the shelf and took that as a sign of a good product or a terrible one.

To help others out there, and before you pull the trigger…some things you want to keep in mind are as follows:

1) Does it store well?

2) Does your pet need stairs or a ramp?

3) Does your pet travel with you a lot?

4) Do you have couches?

5) Does your pet sleep with you at night?

6) Is the gripping good?

7) Does it have side rails to ensure your pet does not fall off?

Is it sturdy?

9) Is it lightweight?

10) Can it fit into a car?

The only one that I found to work in ALL situation and folds up perfectly is a telescoping ramp. A dog telescoping ramp gives you the flexibility of storage, amount of incline, applies to almost every situation, and last but not least, is dynamic….it can be shaped for all occasions. Friends of mine turned me over to petwithpetcare.com/” target=”_blank petwithpetcare.com which gave me free information about dog products and it’s a great help to know there’s a resource out there.

The Papillon loves to exercise outdoors but an apartment will do just fine as long as she can get regular walks. She is a dainty, fine boned dog that loves to be pampered. She learns fast and loves to travel with her master. She may not get along with other dogs and should be socialized early for other pets. She gets along fine with older children but younger children may hurt her by accident. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.

Approximate Adult Size

The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Papillon is 8 to 11 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 8 to 10 pounds. The female ranges from 8 to 11 inches to the withers and 7 to 9 pounds.

Special Health Considerations

Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Papillon is no exception. Although considered a very healthy breed, be on the look out for Slipped Patella, low blood sugar, and Progressive Retinal Atrophy. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.

She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.

Grooming

The Papillon has a silky, long, fine, flowing coat without an undercoat. They shed average and need to be combed and brushed daily. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat, help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.

Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet.

Life Span

The Papillon can live between 13 and 16 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

History

The Papillon comes from France where they were developed into a specific breed. They are an old breed that goes back as far as 700 years. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1915.

Some Registries

Papillon Club of America
UKC United Kennel Club
NKC National Kennel Club
CKC Continental Kennel Club
APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
AKC American Kennel Club
FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
KCGB Kennel Club of Great Britain
ANKC Australian National Kennel Club
ACR American Canine Registry

Litter Size

2 to 4 Papillon puppies

Category

Toy

Terms To Describe

Friendly, lap, elegant, lively, dainty, easy, graceful, easy, intelligent

SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

Good watch dog.
Generally an odorless dog.
She keeps herself clean.

SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Poor guard dog.
May not get along with other canines.

Other Names Known By

Butterfly Dog, Continental Spaniel, Continental Toy Spaniel, Toy Spaniel

Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.

About the Author

Mitch Endick is a short article writer, editor and website developer for the popular pet site petpages.com petpages.com, a pet information site with free pet ads, dog classifieds, and puppy for sale info. petpages.com Petpages.com also offers information on cats, fish, reptiles, birds, ferrets, rabbits, mice and even pet bugs.